Osa Peninsula is the best place to see all four species of Costa Rica monkeys in the wild. By “seeing” I do not mean a theoretical possibility to get a fleeting glimpse of these fascinating creatures. I am talking about a real, almost guaranteed, opportunity to observe them in their natural habitat for hours and hours. Below are the details and photographs from our most recent trip to Costa Rica.
What Kind of Monkeys Live in Costa Rica?
There are four native monkey species to be found in Costa Rica:
Central American squirrel monkey
Mantled howler monkey
Geoffroy’s spider monkey
White-faced capuchin
All of them have different, but partially overlapping habitats, dietary preferences and travel patterns. They also display a variety of interesting types of locomotion and behaviors when interacting with their “peers” and other animal species. Some monkeys are rather common throughout the country and the Central Ameraca, others are rare and near-endemic. Certain monkey species are especially shy and elusive, whereas, at least one group of Costa Rican primates, would “stalk” and even “harass” the humans when encountering them in the wild.
A Monkey Heaven of Osa Peninsula
Osa Peninsula, located in the remote south of Costa Rica, is the only single place in the country where all extant primate species still naturally co-exist. In fact, one of our nature guides from the local Lapa Rios ecolodge told us, that all four may be seen as they forage peacefully on the fruits of a single large tree.
While this tale might be a bit of an exaggeration, it is not too far from the reality. To enjoy multiple close and casual encounters with the monkeys, all you would need is sufficient time (5-7 days, is my estimate), patience and a good local travel base on the peninsula. Matapalo Beach became such a place for us on our most recent trip to Costa Rica.
Matapalo, the less-traveled Gateway to Corcovado
In fact, you even do not have to venture out inside the Corcovado National Park itself to see all 4 Costa Rican monkey species up close. Wildlife does not recognize the boarders created by humans. A recent study conducted around the Carate Gate of the national park by a group of Frontier’s volunteers demonstrated that quite convincingly. The staff at the local ecolodges, which use camera-trapping as a non-invasive assessment of the movement and abundance of larger animals, have also told us about the “wildlife spillover” they were witnessing in the recent years. According to them, many mammals, including those still considered endangered, were moving in and out of the Corcovado National Park in search on new mates and territories. On our most recent trip to Costa Rican jungle, we made a similar conclusion about the country’s primates: the chances to spot all species of wild monkeys are very good around Cabo Matapalo, just outside of the Corcovado National Park.
Costa Rican Monkeys Under Pressure
The fact that all four monkey species of Costa Rica can successfully co-exist on Osa Peninsula is not unusual for the New World Neotropics. Interestingly, scientists estimated the average number of Central and South American monkey species sharing territory as 6 +/-3.6 (Peres and Janson, 1999).
Across Americas, the monkey populations have been declining, threatened by habitat fragmentation and loss to agriculture and infrastructure development, increased tourism and illegal pet trade. Although, such trends have been largely reversed in Costa Rica, two monkey species remain significantly affected by the previous and more recent negative ecological changes. In case of dietary overlap and during periods of decreased availability of food sources and suitable habitat, the pressure of competition might increase. But these loss of resources does not affect all four Costa Rican monkey species equally. Whereas the Capuchins and the Howlers have been relatively successful surviving and thriving under the environmental pressure, the Spider and the Squirrel monkeys have remained particularly vulnerable.
Why Howler Monkeys Roar and Grunt?
These are the primates, which you will hear more often than see. Despite their terrifyingly loud grunts and roar at dawn and dusk, Costa Rican Golden Manteled Howler Monkey (Alouatta palliata) are actually non-aggressive primates. In fact, they tend to be dominated both by spider and capuchin monkeys when they sometimes meet in the forest. During encounters with humans, they largely ignore them. Sometimes, however, howlers might express their displeasure by urinating (or worse) down on people from the canopy. You better watch out!
Howler monkeys mostly eat leaves (folivores) and sometimes fruits. Because of their nutritionally poor diet, these monkeys are low-energy slow-moving primates, who spend most of their time sleeping and resting. Even their loud acoustic system is believed to enable them to avoid confrontation with other groups without having to move around and spend too much energy. Unlike other Costa Rican monkeys, howlers almost never leap between branches. However, they display some unique forms of quadrupedal (using all 4 limbs) locomotion. A controlled head-first vertical descent along tree branches and lianas is one of them (watch it here). The animal will face the ground and walk down with both hands and feet grasping the support and the prehensile tail helping to control the movements. Only in a few species of non-claw animals have developed this rather uncommon type of locomotion. It is an adaptation for more energy-effective foraging at various levels of the forest canopy
Spider Monkey of Costa Rica
The Geoffroy’s Spider Monkey (Ateles geoffroyi) is among the largest of the New World primates and is native to Costa Rica. Like all other monkeys of Costa Rica, they are active during the day (diurnal) and live in the trees (arboreal species). They prefer spending time within high upper canopy of primary forests. Being large ripe fruit specialists (frugivores), they also eat leaves and occasionally seeds, flowers and even insects. Substantial amount of their water needs is covered by eating fruits and young leaves. However, spider monkeys also drink water from tree holes, epiphytes in trees and water sources on the ground. Their diet does not rely on extractive foraging techniques and does not require any significant manual dexterity. However, some anecdotal evidence of spontaneous tool use by wild spider monkeys (e.g. “females used detached sticks to scratch themselves”) has been reported.
Spider monkeys have developed curious locomotion adaptations of their arms, hands and prehensile (able to grasp) tail. These make them able to arm-swing in addition to leap from tree to tree. This combinatorial type of arboreal locomotion (leaping and brachiation) and prehensile tail places them into the “semibrachiator” or “tail-assisted brachiator” categories by primatologists.
Spider monkeys adhere to “fission-fusion” social system, in which smaller or larger “feeding parties” form and dissolve, depending on fruit availability. In the rainforest ecosystem, spider monkeys are important seed dispersers and as such play an important role in tropical forest regeneration.
Geoffroy’s spider monkeys have been reported to sometimes interact (even engage in mutual grooming!) with the Capuchins. However, we did not have an opportunity to see them interact with other monkeys.
While walking along a trail in the primary forest, we encountered a group of four male spider monkeys. They were not pleased to see us at all, swaying their arms and violently shaking the tree branches. By the King Louis Waterfall, however, we could peacefully observe two females with their young at a relatively close distance over a longer period. Read about the waterfall hike and wildlife viewing therein this blog post “King Louis Waterfall-Hike, Rappel, Monkey Watch”.
Due to their slow reproduction, frugivorous diet, and large territory requirement, spider monkeys are particularly vulnerable to disturbances. Currently, they are listed as endangered, with a decreasing population (IUCN, 2014).
Costa Rica’s Smallest Primates
The Central American Squirrel Monkey (Saimiri oerstedii) is the smallest and the most isolated of the five existing species of squirrel monkeys. Living predominantly in the Pacific lowland rainforests of Costa Rica and Panama, they travel in larger troops and often announce their presence with cheerful whistling and chirping. Squirrel monkey’s main diet consists of fruits and insects, but it also includes small vertebrates (frogs, lizards, even birds and bats). Currently, their conservation status is “Vulnerable, with decreasing population” (IUCN).
Interesting facts about Squirrel Monkeys:
Synchronized birth. In a group, all females give birth within a single week! This is to reduce infant losses to predators, which are many and include raptors, such as Grey hawks and Roadside hawks and even Chestnut-mandibled toucans. During our visit to Costa Rica in late January, we did not observe the young of Squirrel monkeys. Reportedly, February through April is the best time of the year to see them due to better food availability.
Association between Squirrel monkeys and birds. Certain kite, tanager and woodcreeper species were reported to follow troops of foraging Squirrel monkeys and take advantage of their feeding behavior. These clever birds have learned to pick up the insects and invertebrates exposed by the monkeys during the feeding sessions.
The “Little Aggressor” and “Great Innovator”
White-headed Capuchin Monkey (also known as the White-faced or White-throated Capuchins (Cebus capucinus)) is one of the most common monkey species in Central America. Unlike other Costa Rican primates, which predominantly feed on tree leaves, fruits and insects, capuchins also hunt squirrels, coati pups and other mammals. They represent a group of so called “omnivorous extractive foragers”. Many species of mammals and birds from this ecological niche are known for their “cleaver approaches”, not only in feeding, but also in other aspects of their lives. Scientists believe that the relative abundance and survival success of Capuchins are attributed to their remarkable adaptability and great variability in behavior. See this short video of their social interactions.
A group of UCLA scientists, who studied “innovative behavior” in Costa Rican Cebus capucinus, reported, that “capuchins, relative to other ape species, devote a higher proportion of their creative energy to investigation of their environment and devising new social behaviors and a lower proportion to comfort-related behaviors and foraging”. “Capuchins devoted about 42% of their innovation repertoire to the investigative domain compared with chimpanzees (31%) and orangutans (14%)”! The older animals appeared to be more inventive within social behaviors, whereas younger monkeys were innovative in other contexts.
Interesting facts about Capuchin Monkeys:
Encounters between groups of capuchins are mostly hostile in nature and bloody male takeovers, followed by infanticides, are common.
A group of Capuchins would easily displace Howler monkeys, despite profound difference in size. However, a group of spider monkeys (who have larger dietary overlap with the capuchins in fruit consumption) seem often have the upper hand.
Capuchins are known for frequently interacting with and investigating other species (potential predators, prey, and feeding competitors). They often mob their predators, no matter how large (including Caymans, raptors and big cats!). Do not get surprised by being “stalked” by capuchins while in the woods! These monkeys do harass so-called “neutral species” (non-threatening and non-competing), including humans. Why are they doing that? Primatologists do not have many solid explanations, other than the underlying aggressive temperament, innate curiosity and investigative nature of Capuchins as a species.
Before going back to Southern Costa Rica, we investigated the local opportunities to see one of the most iconic birds of Central America, the Resplendent Quetzal. In Guatemala (where just like in Mexico, El Salvador, Honduras and other Central American countries, it has become increasingly rare), the bird is the national emblem whose name has been given to the local currency and the second largest city (Quetzaltenango). In Pre-Columbian Mesoamerica, the ancient Maya treated its long tail feathers as a high-status, luxury good reserved for royals and nobility.
“The Quetzal is something more than the living representative of a beautiful country of the present era; its human associations stretch back into antiquity.”
Alexander Skutch
Where do Resplendent Quetzals Live
Resplendent Quetzal is arguably the most spectacular bird of the entire Quetzal family (all the other members of the genus are living in Panama and South America). It also stands out by its preference for high altitudehabitats (anywhere between 5,000-9,000 feet above sea level in Costa Rica and somewhat lower in Guatemala and other Latin American countries), which are notoriously difficult to get to. And this remoteness of its ideal living environment might have saved the species. With a few exceptions, such as the Jalapa Trogon and Mexican Trogon, very few trogon species live in areas with similar temperate and subtropical climates.
Best Places to see Quetzal in Costa Rica
Although the Monteverde and Braulio Carrillo National Parks north of San Jose are more easily accessible from the capital and have more facilities and accommodations in close proximity, they have definitely suffered from the “crowd-forest” image lately. If you do decide to go there, hiring an experienced local guide with an intimate knowledge of the area and the best sighting trails might be a far better option than signing up for a group “Quetzal Tour”.
The Quetzal National Park, and the cloud forest of San Gerardo de Dota Valley along Route 2 (just 50 miles south of San Juan), for example, are good options for “resplendent quetzal- watching”. Apparently, this flamboyantly feathered relative of trogons is most commonly seen there between October and January.
When in the Best Time to go Quetzal Birding
It is widely believed that the best time to view resplendent quetzal is during the breeding season spanning February-May, when the males become bolder and more visible during their aerial displays and loud calls. However, in certain areas, the earlier months October through January might be the best quetzal watching season. This is because these birds, as many other Costa Rican avian species, are altitudinal migrants, which spend significant amount of time outside of their breeding/nesting season in premontane forests at lower altitudes
Private Quetzal Watching with Desafios Tours
We opted for a “less popular” birding time in mid-January in a more remote place call Las Tablas Protected Area on the border with Panama and were not disappointed. Aside from a better rate, a tour earlier in the year seemed to offer a more “intimate” experience. And the promise of almost guaranteed sightings of Resplendent Quetzal offered by Desafios Tours based in San Vito got our attention.
After a string of emails with the tour operator, the owner and our guide Henry Barrantes, we settled on January 23rd as a date for our Quetzal adventure. Since we planned to rent a 4×4 SUV during our road vacation in Southern Costa Rica, we opted to use our own vehicle for the road trip to Las Tablas instead of hiring Henry’s 4WD car (the decision we came to regret in the retrospect).
The Road to Las Tablas
We met Henry at San Vito Park just before the sunrise (shortly after 5 am). He briefly inspected our brand-new rental SUV, kicked a couple of tires a couple of times. The area we were going to was located on the border with La Amistad near the Panamanian boarder was notoriously difficult to get to, he told us. And ,although, the dirt road leading to Las Tables had been improved by a local water supply company in the recent years, it remained largely impassible during the rainy season. Had we decided to hire Henry’s car, we would have chains and gas-powered chainsaw at out disposal. Only later on, the way up the mountain did we realize how handy (if not absolutely necessary) both of those tools would be to make an adventure like this one possible.
The first 40 km covered a reasonably good stretch of the road (paved too!) and the remaining 15 km – on a dirt clay and gravel road. We also had to cross the river twice. The water was muddy with no bottom in sight (this is where we sustained light damage to the car). Fortunately, the road was dry overall (it did not rain for over a month, according to Henry). When the road is wet, everything changes and Henry had several “horror” stories to share with us in this regard. We highly recommend hiring Henry’s robust 4WD for an additional fee and avoid the headaches of potential rental car breakdowns.
Halfway to our destination, we met a couple of local schoolteachers (both of whom were Henry’s colleagues), who had to turn around due to a fallen tree blocking the road. Following a brief conversation, we all were on our way up to mountain again ready to tackle the unexpected obstacle together.
Road to Las Tablas
Upon our arrival at top of the mountain, we made a brief stop at the ‘frontier farm’, which Don Miguel (Miguel Sandi) has run off-the-grid for almost half a century (you can read more about the Las Tablas Ranch in this blog). After Henry paid a small fee for the “property access”, we headed out to the forest across the pasture .
Forest Around Las Tablas
In the forest surrounding the farm, the oaks and alders were standing tall, densely covered with mosses and epiphytes, such as ferns, herbs, shrubs, and even trees of fair size. The resplendent quetzals thrive in the subtropical forests at these high altitudes. The laurel family (Lauraceae) trees, including aguacatillo (which means “little avocado” in Spanish), the wild relatives of the avocado (Persea spp.) and a variety of Nectandra and Ocotea species (which local people call ira or quizzara) are also common here. For the Quetzals, which are fruit-specialists (or frugivores), the fruits from these plants are the most important food sources and are essential for their existence.
Interesting fact: Quetzals, who just like trogons are aerial feeders, have flexible mandibles and clavicles, which enable them to swallow large fruits whole. From “FRUITS AND THE ECOLOGY OF RESPLENDENT QUETZALS”
Life History of the Quetzal
In his early work “Life History of the Quetzal”,Alexander Skutch (learn more about this legendary botanist-turned-ornithologist here) created a thorough description of natural history of the bird, including its feeding, nesting and other behaviors. His work never got old and remains one of the most comprehensive accounts on this subject. As noted by Skutch, outside of the breeding season, quetzals rarely vocalize. However, to an observant and trained eye and ear, their presence can be quickly revealed by the bird’s noisy flight, its large size, and the sound of the bulky seed regurgitation.
Resplendent Quetzal at Las Tablas
After 2 hours of searching and listening attentively, we were able to finally see a gorgeous male flying along the edge of the pasture plucking its favorite wild avocado fruits on the wing from some of the lower branches. While keeping an eye on the bird, all three of us made a dash to the spot through the edge of the forest. There it was a glamorous bird in iridescent green and crimson plumage perched elegantly on a lower branch with its long train feathers blazing in the wind.
Other Birds, Animals and Flowers at Las Tablas
White at Las Tablas, we spotted several other bird species. A small group of Emerald toucanets feeding on fruits of a gigantic ficus tree towering over the pasture was a specially interesting to watch. Wildflowers (including wild begonia) and primary cloud forest all around us. But a real treat was spotting a Two-toedsloth who was feeding in the canopy of the tall trees on the edge of the pasture.
Two-toed sloth at Las Tablas
Whereas the Monteverde quetzal population is relatively well studied, there are still many unanswered questions and gaps in our understanding of life cycle in the southern Costa Rica. This might soon change, however. According to our tour guide and other local sources, the land ownership of the Las Tablas Ranch is currently “in limbo” and this remote area is increasingly seen as the next up and coming spot for more in depth studies of this charismatic bird in Southern Costa Rica. As for many regional migrants, Quetzals are particularly susceptible to local extinction because their life cycle is dependent on availability of all seasonal habitats due to seasonal variation in food supply at low and high altitudes.
Lunch Costa Rican Style
In the middle of our “excursion”, Henry treated us to a traditional Tico lunch cooked by his wife early the same morning: pork, rice, black beans, onions wrapped in a banana leaf constituted our first proper meal that day and tasted heavenly.
Tico lunch al fresco
On the way back we also stopped at a local bakery in Sabalito to buy pastries before heading for our last stop on this tour, a small coffee cooperative sourced and run by four local farmers.
Under huge tents, different quality grades coffee beans were baking in the afternoon sun. Henry’s proudly showed us his favorites, so called “unwashed coffee” beans, coated with berry pulp (“honey”) for additional flavor.
Our tour that day was concluded by washing down the tres leches cakes (we brought with us from the Sabalito bakery) by freshly brewed coffee in the nearby degustation room with a few pieces of coffee-inspired local art.
There are many hiking opportunities around the small community of San Vito in Southern Costa Rica, but we had difficulty finding any information about local forest access and hiking trails before our visit to the Wilson Botanical Garden. As a result, we ended up not having sufficient time to walk all the trails in the area. The purpose of this blog is to share what we learned about the forest trails during our recent trip to Las Cruces Biological Station, so you can take a full advantage of its excellent hiking opportunities while in San Vito. The table at the end of this post lists all the trails open to visitors of the Wilson Botanical Garden with distances, approximate hiking time, difficulty level and other useful details about the terrain and hiking trailselevation profiles.
Las Cruces Biological Station maintains a sizable network of trails, which provide access to the forest reserve for its scientific staff, researchers and visitors
The Canopy Tower
Ever since its inauguration in May 2011, birding from Canopy Towerbecame a popular recreational activity of local naturalists at the San Vito Birding Club (which was instrumental in raising funds for this “landmark” at Las Cruces). The 4-story tower has multiple observation platforms with a breath-taking view opening in all directions from its very top.
Get up there, if only to get a sense of the place and to catch a glimpse of the iconic Pigafetta palms. Early in the morning, there is a good chance to spot birds and other wildlife in the surrounding forest.
View of Pigafetta Palm Trees from the Canopy Tower
Rio Java trail
This 1 km (0.7 miles) long trail will bring you to the Java River, which has been the water source for the town of San Vito for many years. The trail goes through selectively logged and advanced second growth forest, along a well maintained path with a few interpretive displays. Besides magnificent native vegetation, one might observe some local birds (such as manakins, forest wrens and falcons) and other animals (White-faced Capuchin monkeys, squirrels, coati-mundis, agutis).
Walking along the Rio Java trail, it’s hard to miss the Beehive ginger or Honeycomb ginger (Zingiber spectabile) with its bright-colored inflorescences. Unfortunately, this is one of the most problematic invasive species, which originated from the Botanical Garden and spread throughout the understory of the secondary forest. It has been out-competing some native gingers such as Renealmia cernua.
Rio Java forest trail
Melissa Trail
Back in 1998, “Melissa’s meadow” was purchased by Las Cruses from the neighboring Rojas family using a generous donation and was named in honor of the donor family’s daughter. This is a former pasture land that has now been essentially reforested and restored to secondary forest of local native tree species. This is the area of the forest where J. Berton C. Harris and J. Leighton Reid made their sound recordings of 135 bird species (early-successional birds as well as the mature forest avian species), which are now available (as a download) through Las Cruces Biological Station’s website.
Water Trails
The Water trail runs through the most recently acquired piece of land and, as the name suggests, crosses several creeks and offers a view of a smaller waterfall (a short hike off the main path).
Wilson Trail
Wilson trail is a short and easy trail, which cuts across primary rain forest and connects the Melissa Trail and the Ridge Trail.
Ridge Trail and Loop Trail
These trails are the most remote network of more demanding trails in the primary rain forest, which require significant amount of time and planning. The reward is the absolute solitude and close to pristine primary forest habitat. The shortest way to this trio of trails would also be the steepest, via the er Ridge trail and over the Rio Java.
Rio Java and Ridge trails connection
The Loop trail, true to its name, provides a more moderate alternative and loops back to the steeper Ridge trail. Depending on your pace, both of these trails (~3 km) can be covered in 2-4 hours. The best way to explore this hidden corner of the Las Cruces Biological Station is to join the growing number of the overnight visitors.
Gamboa Trail
Gamboa trail is the longest (~3km) and one of the most rugged forest trails in Las Cruces. The area has been a part of the forest reserve since the mid-90s and served as research. Some of the rarest resident species of mature forests, such as an elusive puma, or the white-ruffed manakin, have been observed here.
The fascinating story, the vast collection of native and exotic tropical plants and the access to a large network of hiking trails through the primary and secondary forests, all make this 60-years old Botanical Garden and the Las Cruces Biological Station a major destination in the area. On our way to the Osa Peninsula, we decided to make a slight detour and spend a few days in this remote location by the Panamanian boarder.
The Special Mission of Tropical Botanical Gardens
The Wilson Botanical Garden may well be one of the most important botanical gardens in Latin America, and globally. A recent study “Ex-situ conservation of plant diversity in the world’s botanic gardens” by the University of Cambridge revealed that botanical gardens are predominantly located in temperate climate zones. However, an estimated three quarters of species absent from living botanical collections are, in fact, tropical in origin. These findings underscore the importance of the tropical plant collections, like the Wilson Botanical Garden, for conservation of floral biodiversity.
An Orchid near Casa Wilson
Wilson Botanical Garden’s Conservation Ecosystem
The Wilson Botanical Gardens and Las Cruces Biological Station are located near San Vito (300 km/6 hour drive) south of the capital San José) in the remote municipality of Coto Brus bordering Panama. This is a charming settlement with enduring Italian roots (Italian is still being taught at public schools here!). The town was founded in the late 1940-s by a group of “pioneers” attracted from Italy by the prospects of coffee growing in the area.
Situated on 10-hectares (~ 25-acres) at the elevation of 3,900 ft (1,200 m) above sea level within the Fila Cruces coastal mountain range, Wilson Botanical Garden boasts over 3000 plant species and one of the largest collections of palms in the world (over 600 varieties). The Biological Station and the Garden contribute to the AMISTOSA Biological Corridor, which connects the Osa Peninsula and the La Amistad International Park (PILA) in the Talamanca Mountains. Due to its proximity to La Amistad and incredible biodiversity, Las Cruces and Wilson Botanical Garden were declared a part of the Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1983.
Examining the local tree cover changes over the recent 60 years, it becomes painfully clear that the Las Cruces Biological Station and Wilson Botanical Garden represent a green oasis in this largely deforested territory of Southern Costa Rica.
Early Days as a Private Garden and Commercial Nursery
The property was purchased in 1960 by horticulturist and tropical plant aficionado Robert Wilson and his wife Catherine. Somewhat ironically, Wilson Botanical Garden was initially created as a private botanical garden (with visitors in mind) and commercial nursery (for income). There was even an early attempt to cultivate tea for sale, which did not pan out in the coffee-growing community of San Vito.
The Centerpiece-Bromeliad Hill Garden
Garden’s Layout and Plant Collection
The world-renowned Brazilian landscape designer Roberto Burle-Marx, who was called “the Picasso of landscape design” for his artistry, and had a disciplined knowledge of botany, and provided the initial garden design concepts and several plants (some of which are still a part of the current collection).
“Any country which maintains such a Botanical Garden as this must be proud of its contribution to culture and education”
Roberto Burle-Marx, Rio de Janeiro, March 24, 1977
The Wilson Botanical garden harbors a vast collection of native and exotic plants from all over the world with a strong emphasis on Palms (Arecaceae), Bromeliads (Bromeliaceae), and other ‘showy’ cultivated families such as Heliconias (Heliconiaceae) and Gingers (Zingiberaceae and Marantaceae).
By design, the Bromeliad Hill and other central areas of the garden are heavily “manicured”, whereas some of the more peripheral areas are maintained in a more natural semi-wild form, blending well with the surrounding forest. This map of Wilson Botanical Garden shows its layout and the locations of different plant collections.
Visitor Information Area
On the hillside between the dining hall, the library and the reception building across from the parking lot, you will see eight large panels within the recently constructed Visitor Information Area. This colorful interpretive display is the work of artist Deirdre Hyde, who has created similarly impressive decorative and educational pieces for several other national parks in Costa Rica. The original art of the exhibit blends with traditional indigenous patterns and takes you through the history of the Coto Brus region and Las Cruces Biological Station, the adventures of early settlers. The scientific content focuses on plant collections of the Wilson Botanical Garden and nature conservation.
Palms
Wilson Botanical Garden’s palm collection, one of the largest in the world, is its pride and, as one palm expert put it, “the backbone of its beauty and elegance”. From about 2600 species comprising this large family (Arecaceae or Palmae, not to be confused with cycads or even cyclanths!), about 90 are native to Costa Rica.
There is no separate area for Wilson Botanical Garden palm collection, which now covers over 600 different varieties. Instead, you will enconter palm trees growing nearly on every corner: from the Ruffled fan palm (Lacuala grandis) in the Bromeliad Hill Garden to the giant King Kong Fishtail Palm trees (Caryota gigas) towering over the lookout (the Mirador). Within the Banana section of the Garden, we found a larger group of Costa Rica-native walking palms or cashapona (Socratea exorrhiza) standing on peculiar stilt roots. Climbing the Canopy Tower opened the view over the iconic Pigafetta palms silhouetted against the sunset or simply the blue sunny sky.
On the way to the greenhouse back in the garden, we spotted a sizable Traveler’s Palm (Ravenala madagascariensis), a national tree of Madagascar. Despite its name and some resemblance, this remarkable plant with banana-like leaves, is not really a palm tree. It is a relative of the South African “bird-of-paradise” plant family and is believed to use non-flying mammals such as nectar-feeding lemurs for pollination.
Giant King Kong palm trees
Bromeliad Hill Garden
Surrounding Casa Wilson, which recently underwent significant repairs after 50 years of sporadic damages by weather and termites, there is the terraced Bromeliad Hill Garden. It has been the centerpiece of the “formal” part of the Wilson Botanical Garden, ever since Burle Marx visited Robert and Catherine Wilson during the “conceptual design” phase in 1962. Follow the grassed path down the Bromeliad Hill, and you will walk past two of his signature plants, the ruffled fan palm and the massive imperial bromeliad (Vriesea imperialis).
The Pollinator Garden located behind the arid plants collection on Bromeliad Hill is one of the more recent additions, which was initially designed as a Hummingbird Garden. Later it was cheerfully “re-branded” and populated with mostly native plants growing in a concentric pattern around the old water fountain that was originally installed by Robert Wilson near the Wilson house. This flowering display is a living and breathing magnet for local bees, butterflies, hummingbirds and other nectarivores (such as beetles and bats).
Cycad Section at Wilson Botanical Garden
Cycads
There is a small thriving collection of Cycads from around the world just behind Casa Wilson: Cycas from Asia and Australia, Dioonspp. from Mexico and South America and a few African Encephalartos. We also spotted the Costa Rica’s native Zamia fairchildiana displaying spectacular cones of both types. If you venture out to the primary forest trails at Las Cruces Biological Station, you might run into much larger samples of this cycad (like this over 10-foot tall Zamia fairchildiana plant photographed by the late Wilson Botanical Garden director and renowned Costa Rican botanist Luis Diego Gomez https://fotodiarist.com/2016/07/02/finding-at-las-cruces-the-impartial-calm-of-nature/. Learn about all other Zamia species growing in Costa Rica here.
Orchids
While orchids are not a specialty of Wilson Botanical Garden, you can still find quite a few orchids throughout Las Cruces Biological Station. At least 130 orchid species have been identified within its boundaries by Fabián Alb. Sibaja Araya. Descriptions and photographs of over 50 different genera are part of this illustrated inventory of its orchidaceous flora Orchids of Las Cruces Biological Station. For orchid aficionados, I would recommend a trip to the Lankester Botanical Garden in Cartago, near San Jose. It has a vast Orchidaceae collection and is credited for its prominent role in tropical orchid research and conservation.
There are a few orchids with large showy inflorescences growing just behind the Cycad collection. In the Banana area, we spotted elegant Scaphyglottis mesocopis (a native orchid of Costa Rica and Panama) growing around a tree trunk (these are blossoming between Jan-Mar and Nov-Dec).
Native Orchid Scaphyglottis mesocopis
Heliconia Display
The Wilson Botanical Garden’s heliconia collection is a short walk down the hill from Casa Wilson. The layout and design of the Heliconia Garden have been completely overhauled in the recent years. The Heliconia plant collection has also been expanded and currently covers over 100 species and varieties (of roughly 220 species spread throughout Central and South America and some Pacific Islands) of these majestic neotropical plants with showy flowers. This section of the Garden dotted with colorful splashes of erect and pendant heliconia inflorescences are frequented year around by local hummingbirds.
The Mirador and Las Positas Water Garden
The far corners of the Garden, like the Mirador and the Water Garden, can be easily overlooked. Surrounded by giant King Kong palm trees, the Lookout is a perfect spot for getting a sense of garden’s elevation and for taking a power nap on a late afternoon.
On the way back from the Mirador, we made a right turn into a path zig-zagging through the giant Bamboo “forest”, which was planted by Robert Wilson some 40-45 years ago. Hidden from the plain view in a shaded valley decorated with a natural water pools and benches, was the newly created Water Garden. This divine spot in the garden was just recently reclaimed from a prolonged “occupation” by invasive species, such as Velvet Pink Banana (Musa velutina) and Beehive Ginger (Zingiber spectabile) vegetation and repopulated by Costa Rican native wetland and aquatic plants. Since its inception, the water garden became one of the favorite spots for local birdwatchers.
Las Positas Water Garden
How Much Time to Spend?
Although Wilson Botanical Garden is relatively compact and most of the plant collections can be covered in a single morning or afternoon, one should plan to spend at least one whole day (the Garden is open between 8 am and 5 pm) for more than a cursory glance. This should give you enough time to climb the Canopy Tower and even take a short hike (~2 hours) along the Rio Java trail (one of the numerous hiking trails through the primary and secondary forest which are maintained by Las Cruces Biological Station). Or you could just take it slowly and do some heavy relaxing now and then in the shade of the canopy. Bliss …
On the latest trip to Southern Costa Rica, we spent a few days botanizing along the trails of Matapalo Beach on the remote Osa Peninsula. Experienced local nature guides from the Lapa Rios Ecolodge taught us how to recognize some of the area’s most remarkable plants and trees and to appreciate Costa Rican rain forest’s medicinal bounty. Planting a “suicidal tree” at the end of the stay felt like a tiny contribution to this last stronghold of the Pacific rain forest.
“A traveler should be a botanist, for in all views plants form the chief embellishment”
Charles Darwin
Matapalo – What’s in the Name?
Matapalo is a local name for strangler fig (Ficus species) and on Osa Peninsula these trees are a rather common sight. A large number of local birds and some animals feed on ficus fruits and spread around their seeds. Of the 150 Ficus species living in America, many (if not most) have so called “strangler habit”. On Osa Peninsula, you are likely to encounter Ficus obtusifolia and Ficus nymphaeifolia, “hugging” other trees. The host tree eventually dies by shading, trunk constriction and root competition. However, “strangling” is rather common growth strategy in tropical lowland rain forest and cloud forest and is not at all limited to ficus trees. In some areas of rain forest, as much as 15% of canopy trees is estimated to host stranglers and similar hemiepiphytes.
Matapalo – Strangler Fig
Botanical Resources for Osa Peninsula Flora
To fully appreciate plant diversity in this corner of Costa Rica, check out Vascular Plants of the Osa Peninsula, Costa Rica website. This collection contains a comprehensive “check-list” representing 2240 species, 950 genera, and 167 families with sighting maps of thousands of local plant records. A more compact illustrated field guide compiled by local and visiting (from the Missouri Botanical Garden) botanists offers images of ficus spp. and other charismatic plants from the Moraceae family, which you are likely to see on Osa Peninsula.
Guided Botanical Tours on Matapalo Beach
To learn more about the unique flora of the region, we signed up for a couple of local hikes with Lapa Rios. This is one of the National Geographic’s Unique Ecolodges, which has access to several miles of privately owned trails cutting through the primary and secondary wet lowland rainforest. Most importantly, they graciously allows travelers who are not staying at the lodge on their trips if spots are available. Otherwise, you can also arrange for rather affordable private tours with their nature guides.
The Medicine Walk on Osa Peninsula
During our one-week stay in Cabo Matapalo, we had no problems signing up for several of their small-group nature walks (they can include up to ten people, but most had three to five). To learn more about the captivating history of Lapa Rios and its environmental mission, check out this post about the “Pigs, Twigs and Garbage Tour”.
The Medicine Walk
For the last 30 years, Costa Rica has been actively involved in “bioprospecting” of its botanical riches. The purpose of which has been to identify and screen plants for medically active compounds in search for yet undiscovered medicines. At that time, it was estimated that about 10 % of plants tested on the basis of documented traditional medical use contained therapeutically active agents in commercial amounts. Of these, 10 % will exhibit unique medicinal effects. This odds ratio of 1:100 is strikingly higher than the effectiveness of a typical all-synthetic screening program estimated at 1:23,000. Back then, it was estimated that about three-quarters of plant-derived drugs were discovered through folk usage.
To learn about the local ethnobotanical traditions, we signed up for a 2-hour Medicine Walk with Jeffery, a local guide from Lapa Rios. We started this highly interactive short hike (the Medicine trail itself is only 1 km long) in a small garden right behind the main lodge.
“Baby Powder” Plant
Equipped with “Medicinal Plants of Costa Rica“ book, Jeffery brings our group of five to a patch with lavishly growing Calathea lutea (the common Spanish name is Bijuaga). These large-leaved herbaceous plants are from a pan-tropical Marantaceae family with over 60 different Calathea species described just in Costa Rica (one third of which are endemic or regional endemic). They are also common in the understory vegetation of the wet lowland rainforest on Osa Peninsula and several species are local endemics.
The wax covering the silvery-white undersurface of Calathea has been used by locals as a talcum substitute in baby care and a general-purpose lubricant. The indigenous peoples have also adopted it in the “curing” or waterproofing of bowstrings, in basketry. With a few gentle strokes of a pocketknife, Jeffery scrapes off a heap of white powder from the shiny undersides of a leaf. The average yield of wax from large-leaved species, such as C. lutea can be as high as 0.7 gram per leaf!
Collecting wax from Calathea lutea leaves
Carpenter´s Bush – a Lady Medicine and More
Here is something else. Justicia pectoralis, locally called as “tilo or carpenter’s bush”, is another medicinal plant with a long history of traditional use. In Costa Rica, leaf extracts are sold as an over-the-counter sleep aid, whereas on the markets, dried plants are advertised as a treatment for menopause and other “lady ailments”. In addition to its mild sedative and estrogenic qualities, it is also believed to have anti-inflammatory effects.
Follow the Medicine Trail of Rain Forest
After spending half an hour botanizing on the grounds of the ecolodge, we took a short ride to the head of the Medicine Trail and started our hike in the rain forest. There were “discoveries” on every corner. We paused briefly by a Jackass bitters (Neuroloena lobate). Resembling our ordinary ragweed, this plant is used as a natural remedy against intestinal parasites, for acid reflux or indigestion and, as a tonic for traveler’s diarrhea.
Next in line was a “spiral ginger” plant Costus spp. (from Costaceae) with its deep-green leaves forming a neat spiral. Although few docs believe in its anti-lithic magical properties, the plant has been used as a traditional medicine for kidney stones and other ailments of the urinary system. Ethnobotanical fancy aside, Costus represents a very interesting diverse group of Osa Peninsula plants. Originally (millions of years back) from Africa, this family is now counting over 100 mostly neotropical species. A dozen different Costus species, including several regional and Osa Peninsula endemics (such as C. osae, C. ricus and C. stenophyllus), were reported by David Skinner in the Golfo Dulce area. Interestingly, the majority of the locally growing Costus have evolved as Ornithophilous species, which means that they are pollinated by hummingbirdsas opposed to bees.
A leaf of Wild Costus or Spiral Ginger
Our next stop along the trail is a massive Kerosene tree (Hymenaea courbaril, also called stinking toe), which can reach the height of 150 feet and more, supporting its crown with a large trunk. Jeffery makes a tiny cut through its bark, letting a drop of sap run down the blade before setting it on fire. The highly flammable ‘fragrant’ resin is believed to defend this neotropical native tree against insects, herbivores and pathogenic fungi. This sticky gum has been used by locals as an anti-itch and anti-mosquito remedy. Already in the Pre-Columbian time, it was collected by the aborigines of Costa Rica and Panama and used as incense, varnish, and for carving amulets.
Arboreal Wonders of the Primary Rain Forest
Next day we continued our botanical explorations (this time with Edwin, see a very short video from the hike) on the Osa Trail, which is over 3 km long, but is largely downhill or flat. It covers areas with old secondary growth as well as the original primary rain forest with magnificent native trees, many of which are several hundred years old.
Primary Rainforest Canopy
Less than half of the remaining forest on Osa Peninsula is old growth, but the region still has an astounding plant diversity and some tallest trees in Central America. 5% of the tree species are endemic and a as much as a quarter of as regional endemics, growing only in Panama, Costa Rica and Nicaragua.
Edwin introduced us to a native Diesel tree (Copaifera camibar), which produce resin similar to that of the Kerosene tree, a majestic Mahogany(Carapa guianensis) and an Abrojo (a vernacular name of Sloaneaspp) with a high buttress hugged by lianas. The lush-green understory of the rain forest was occasionally dotted by the splashes of red Passionflower vines (Passiflora spp). In some areas along the trail, the forest floor was littered by yellow flowers of the giant Ajo or Garlic tree (Caryocar costaricensis). The blossoms give off The scent of these blossoms, which was reminiscent of garlic gave this regional endemic its name.
Along the trail, we also got a good look of a wild Theobroma cacao, which the indigenous peoples of the Central America, such as Maya, Toltec and Aztec, turned into “food of the gods” before sharing it with the rest of the world. For a moment, we stopped and craned our necks by an old Ceiba and a Wild Cashew (Anacardium excelsum) trees towering over a steep hillside, to appreciate the share size of these giants, the tallest trees of the Osa Peninsula.
Wild Passion Flower
Planting a “Suicidal Tree” Reseco
After the botanical experiences in the woods, it seemed only natural to sign up for “Plant a Tree” (another “green activity” offered by Lapa Rios ecolodge). A symbolic, yet personally meaningful attempt to leave behind a positive mark in the rain forest, which we all found so “therapeutic”. Among the seedlings lined up at “the tree nursery” by the main lodge, the intriguing description of the “suicidal tree” reseco stood out. Crowned with just a few bright-green pinnate leaves on longer petioles, these baby plants looked rather unremarkable.
Edwin explained that reseco (Tachigali versicolor) trees are known for their unusual life cycle: they flower and produce seeds once in a lifetime, then shed their leaves and die. This mode of reproduction (monocarpy, from Greek monos (single) and karpos (fruit)) is very rare among long-lived trees. The remarkable natural history of this tree was first described 50 years ago by Robin Foster, an ecologist from the Fields Museum’s Environmental Conservation Program. He also discovered something else: the ubiquitous leaf-cutter ants never prayed on the “suicidal tree” before the flowering period. This is because the tree produced the defensive anti-fungal compound, whereas the ants relied on fungus as their food source. However, shortly after the fruits were produced and dispersed, the trees would get invaded by ants and other insects and succumb within a year. Not surprisingly, the indigenous people in the Amazon have traditionally used reseco leaf extract as an anti-fungal remedy. Reseco belongs to the pea (legume) family and is one of the regional endemics restricted to the Pacific lowland forest from Costa Rica to Western Columbia.
Planting a “Suicidal” Reseco Tree
One might ask why some trees became monocarpal and how they remained successful in the wild? Scientists, who have studied these trees, believe that monocarpism developed as an adaptive mechanism. Higher growth rate and earlier reproductive maturity might make up for the 100% mortality of adult reseco trees after a single reproductive season.
Unlike majority of other tropical trees, reseco seedlings are shade-tolerant (and are more likely to survive because less grazing occurs in the shaded areas). They are more likely to survive growing under the canopy of trees from the same species, but can also survive for many years in the understory of other trees while waiting for a gap in the canopy to emerge. Based on this knowledge, we decided to give it a shot and planted the young reseco tree in secondary forest with gaps in the canopy. Keep our fingers crossed.
Osa Peninsula is a wildlife paradise and a magnet for naturalists around the world. Whether you are a casual birdwatcher (like us) or a hard-core birder with a long list of “lifers”, the charismatic avifauna of this remote corner in the Southern Costa Rica will not disappoint. Below is a brief recount of our “semi-organized” bird-watching experiences around Matapalo Beach on the southeastern tip of the Osa Peninsula.
On a recent trip to Southern Costa Rica, we used every opportunity to explore local bird communities of the areas we visited. Two of the most recent bird-watching highlights include Los Cusingos Neotropical Bird Sanctuary (founded by Alexander Skutch, a prominent American botanist-turned-ornithologist) and the Resplendent Quetzal Tour to the cloud forest of Las Tablas Protected Area.
The last week of that vacation was spent on the remote Osa Peninsula, and, naturally, birdwatching was on our “to-do-list”. The Osa Peninsula bird list (compiled by Osa Conservation) is long, with close to 400 different species (see some Osa Peninsula bird pictures here). Being “opportunistic” birdwatchers, we opted for one guided tour with Lapa Rios Ecolodge, leaving the rest in the hands of karma and pure luck. Want to know how we did? Read on.
A Red-Lored Parrot couple in a palm tree
Birds around our Matapalo Eco-Villa in Lowland Rain Forest
Our solar-panel-powered Airbnb rental “villa” was in a secluded area, in between the beach and the main road. Surrounded by a garden with pineapples, banana plants and coconut palms, it attracted plenty of frugivorous birds such the Yellow-throated Toucan, the Fiery-billed Aracari and the Red-lored Parrot.
In addition, sizable troupes of White-faced Capuchins and Squirrel Monkeys were descending on the property every afternoon to gorge on bananas, coconuts and flowers. And where there are squirrel monkeys, there are their air-born predators. We spotted both Common Black Hawks and Roadside Hawks, hiding in the lush-green vegetation and waiting watchfully for a lucky break.
Watchful Common Black Hawk
In each group of Squirrel monkeys, all females synchronize their birthing time to a single week in February-March to minimize the loss of newborn babies to these birds of prey. You can find more interesting facts about our observations of all four species Costa Rican Monkeys in Matapalo Beach in my other post on the subject.
The Coastal Birds of Matapalo Beaches
Every morning, rowdy Scarlet Macaws (Ara macao) were patrolling the beaches of Matapalo. Nuts produced by the abundant Beach almond trees (non-native species to these parts of the world) are among favorite foods of these large colorful birds. Osa Peninsula boasts one of the most robust populations of Scarlet Macaws in the Central America.
In low tides, when the volcanic coastal bedrock becomes exposed, one can easily spot wading birds, such as Spotted sandpiper and Ruddy Turnstone. You may even see more uncommon migrant shorebirds in the area. One morning, we observed a Semipalmated Plover running between the rocks and pausing periodically to peck on marine “crawlers”, worms and small mollusks.
Walking along any of the beaches around Cabo Matapalo, the omnipresent Brown Pelicans and Black Vultures were hard to overlook. High in the blue sky, we saw ominously dark silhouettes of soaring Magnificent Frigatebirds and, occasionally, King Vultures.
Black Vulture on Matapalo Beach
Birds of Rivers and Wetlands
While exploring the estuary of the smaller Carbonera River, we saw a Black-bellied Whistling Duck, Purple Gallinules and solitary Green Kingfisher and Ringed Kingfisher. White Ibises, along with Little and Great Blue Herons were right there, by the main road. The portion of the river close to the beach had a denser vegetation, quite suitable for a Bare-throated Tiger-heron and a few Yellow-crowned Night-herons with their juveniles. At the very end on the trail, by the ocean, our bird-guide alerted us to the presence of a Least Sandpiper feeding in shallow waters.
Pastures and Roadside
As we were wandering along the main road, the sightings of Cattle Egret and Snowy Egrets were common in the cleared areas with grazing cattle. Yellow-eyed Great-tailed Grackles, and Great Kiskadee and Tropical Kingbird (both of which are common local flycatchers) are using fences, poles and vegetation by the roadside as launching platforms in their pursuit of flying insects.
There are a few trees with large shady crowns towering over the pastures. These are favorite hangouts and foraging places for noisy Crimson-fronted Parakeets and Orange-chinned Parakeets. Other birds you are likely to see here are Yellow-headed Caracara and Crested Caracara, opportunistic raptors mainly feeding on carcasses of dead animals. Red-crowned Woodpecker is also commonly seen in the area. On our organized bird-watching tour with Lapa Rios Eco Lodge (see more about this trip below), a our guide masterly spotted (and got it on a scope for us) a Spectacled Owl flying into a giant tree in the middle of the pasture.
One day, we spotted a curious pitch black-colored bird with a thick bill sitting on a fence pole with his head turned backwards 180 degrees. It was a Smooth-billed Ani from the cuckoo family, who has as a ‘habit’ to forage alongside the domestic cattle. Apparently, it allows these clever birds to take advantage of insects flushed by grazing animals. Costa Rica did not have native large grazing ungulates (such as deer, antelope and the like) before cattle had been introduced within anis’s natural habitat. Scientists believe that this feeding relationship with cattle evolved during the last 400 years (and became particularly strong during the last century).
Smooth-billed Ani on a Pasture
Migratory neotropical songbirds following their traditional routes between the wintering and breeding habitats must stop en route for foraging and regaining their strength. For many, Osa Peninsula serves as such a stopover refuge in the early spring and late fall. Late January-February are perfect for viewing migratory passerines along the Matapalo Beach.
The dead-end Matapalo Beach Road is quiet and much less trafficked (due to its rugged condition), without clouds of dust to deal with (which are inevitable on the dirt-gravel-covered “main road”). Early morning birding along this coastal road, which runs close to the beach, is excellent. It allows for a better visibility than overgrown rain forest trails. Here, you should have ample opportunity to see the most common small songbirds such as Spot-crowned Euphonia, Cherrie´s Tanager, Blue-gray Tanager, Palm Tanager, Buff-rumped Warbler, Tennessee Warbler and Yellow Warbler. On our early-hour walk to the King Louis Waterfall, we met a couple of small private birding tours with a scope-equipped guide scouting the roadside bushes.
Lapa Rios “Birding” Tours
Lapa Rios Eco Lodge has several bird-watching tours (check their tour book here), all of which are well-suited for the novice and more experienced birders.
One morning, we joined them on “Early BirdsTour”, which was an easy walk led by Edwin, a 24-year local veteran of the Lodge. He is a locally known wildlife expert and an active participant of several bird surveys and other targeted conservation efforts on Osa Peninsula. Our tour lasted around 3 hours and covered several typical local bird habitats.
Early Birds Tour with Lapa Rios
Over 300 bird species (see complete Lapa Rios Bird Checklist) live or migrate through the the area covering about 11 miles (19km) of the coastal Osa Peninsula between Cabo Matapalo to Puerto Jimenez (including the Lapa Rios Reserve itself). The Eco Lodge also has a late afternoon birdwatching walk and a 5-6-hour tour to the mangroves of the Rio Esquinas (with a great opportunity to see more bird species of the Pacific Coast Wetlands).
Rare Birds of Osa Peninsula in Matapalo
Several local bird species from the Red List (living in the area between Puerto Jimenez and Capo Matapalo) are fairly common: these are Baird’s Trogon (Trogon bairdii), Mealy Parrot (Amazona farinose), Great Tinamou (Tinamus major) and Yellow-throated Toucan (Ramphastos ambiguous). And we have seen most of these.
Other species from the “near-threatened” category, such as Golden-winged Warbler (Vermivora chrysoptera), Ornate Hawk-Eagle (Spizaetus ornatus), Crested Eagle (Morphnus guianensis), Marbled Wood-Quail (Odontophorus gujanensis), Great Curassow (Crax rubra) and Three-wattled Bellbird (Procnias tricarunculatus) have also been reported in the area but are rare.
Turquoise Cotinga (Cotinga ridgwayi) is another vulnerable resident bird species of Osa Peninsula, but it is a rather uncommon sight. We were lucky to observe this brilliantly blue bird while visiting the Los Cusingos Neotropical Bird Sanctuary (this location is apparently one of the best sites in Costa Rica to spot this species). For details, check out our post about a guided bird-watching tour at Los Cusingos while staying in Quizarra.
Osa Peninsula and Regional Endemic Birds
Black-cheeked Ant-Tanager, Yellow-billed Cotinga and Mangrove Hummingbird are three endangered endemic or regional endemic bird species from the Red List residing on Osa Peninsula.
Black-cheeked Ant-Tanagers (Habia atrimaxillaris) have the smallest distribution of the five known species of ant tanagers (Habia spp.) with current natural habitat restricted to about a 1,000 sq.km. of Osa Peninsula and Golfo Dulce. On Osa Peninsula, they are are widely distributed but its preferred habitat is “forest with closed canopy and forest edges” with possible affinity for “steep terrain”.
Yellow-billed Cotinga (Carpodectes antoniae), a close relative of Turquoise Cotinga, is an endangered and range-restricted species, with an estimated population of 250-999 (and decreasing). Yellow-billed Cotinga lives on the small remaining patches of the mangroves-rainforest interface on the Pacific Coast. It heavily relies on each of the habitats for food and reproduction, respectively. However, the area representing such a combination of ecological niches has been shrinking.
Mangrove Hummingbird (Amazilia boucardi, estimated population of 2,500-9,999) inhabits mangrove habitat (around 1,000 sq.km.) in a few separate locations along the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica. They feed on nectar produced by mangrove plants, such as Pacific Mangrove (Pelliciera rizophorae) and Hamelia spp.
Boat tour to Sierpe River Mangroves
Endemic Birds’ Ecology Surveys to the Rescue
Although the chances of spotting any of the three Osa Peninsularegional endemic birds are not particularly high, Black-cheeked Ant-Tanager and even Yellow-billed Cotinga have been observed in the area between Cabo Matapalo and Puerto Jimenez . Both species have been reported by the Lapa Rios’s nature guides in the past, although these sightings were rare. Inland sightings of Yellow-billed Cotingas “in small numbers along the Rıo Tigre, 8 km upriver from coastal mangroves, between July and December” have also been reported in “Notes on the distribution, natural history and conservation of the Yellow-billed Cotinga (Carpodectes antoniae)”.
To support an effective management and conservation of regional endemic birds, Osa Conservation and local citizen-scientists and ecotourism business owners have been collecting and sharing knowledge about their natural history and reproductive behavior. Elizabeth Jones, a local naturalist and the owner of the Bosque del Rio Tigre Lodge, and other bird experts conducted several such surveys of the local endangered birds. “Ecology of Endemic Birds” covers the Osa Peninsula habitats of the Yellow-billed Cotinga, the Black-cheeked Ant-Tanager and the Mangrove Hummingbird.
On Osa Peninsula, Yellow-billed Cotinga is best spotted in Rincon de Osa (not surprisingly, this is also the location of the recently established Yellow-billed Cotinga Sanctuary (read its story here“The Yellow-billed Cotinga Sanctuary Takes Shape”) and the mangroves of the Rio Sierpe, Rio Esquinas River and Rio Coto (best accessed by boat). Although inland sightings of this bird were reported (e.g. near Puerto Jimenez) in the past by the Lapa Rios Lodge (Matapalo), these locations (as mentioned above) are not typical. A boat trip through the mangroves the Terraba-Sierpe National Wetlands will most likely produce sightings of Mangrove Hummingbird and its other more common relatives, such as Rufous-tailed Hummingbird and Charming Hummingbird.
If the endemic birds are on your “target list”, hiring local bird experts from the Osa Conservation or Bosquedel Rio Tigre Wildlife Sanctuary and Eco Lodge (with its impressive bird list on its own), who are intimately familiar with these birds’ remaining “strongholds”, would probably be your best bets. Good Luck!
