Flying Copa to Costa Rica

Flying Copa to Costa Rica

This year we decided to step out of our “comfort zone” of the familiar U.S.-based carriers and routes. While planning our most recent trip to Costa Rica, we chose to fly with Copa Airlines. The day in transit should still feel like a vacation start and our goal was to get to San Jose within a day (ideally, within 8-10 hours without extremely early departures and late arrivals). Avoiding nerve-wrackingly short layovers (and the associated risks to lose the connecting flights or our luggage) and crowded and hard-to-navigate airports (like Atlanta and Miami) was also a consideration.

Why fly with Copa Airlines?

In February 5 years ago, we spent close to $1200 for two return tickets to Costa Rica with American Airlines. This winter, the cheapest tickets with close to optimal departure/arrival time and trip duration (8-10 hours) offered by U.S. airlines were selling for close to $800 each. While searching for airline tickets, we noticed an airline with a mysterious name Copa was offering tickets to San Jose for mere $437. The departure and arrival times looked good too. This prompted us to do some research into what Copa was and what people thought of their services.

What is Copa anyway?

There is a good chance are that you (like us) have never heard about Copa. Turns out, Copa is not “Child Online Protection Act” (or several other meanings for this mysterious abbreviation in Wikipedia ). It is an international airline based in and operating from Panama. Copa Airlines is flying to over 80 different destinations in 30 countries and has a heavy presence in the Americas. It is also a Star Alliance member, which means you can earn and redeem your points earned with any of the airlines within this group.

Copa-Airlines-Routes-and-Destinations

There is a share of complains about the Copa Airlines, but most appear to be associated with changes in itineraries and availability or quality of some additional services. More than 80% of travelers on TripAdvisor also seemed to be satisfied with Copa’s operations (4/5 rating based on over 9,000 reviews)

Booking and buying tickets with Copa

 A month prior to our departure time, low-cost economy class tickets were still available. A very reasonable Business class upgrades were also offered to us a week in advance (the flight was full when we boarded the plane!). A week before your flight, you might receive an email from Copa asking whether you would like to upgrade to business class for each leg of the trip. For $900 or less, we were guaranteed an upgrade for the longer legs of the trip (Boston-Panama City).  Flying business class on the shorter flights (under 50 min) would probably not make a difference for our comfort anyway.

Direct booking through the Copa Airline’s website (which also has an English version) was easy. Just remember to pick the seats of your choice as you go. There is no “go-back” option and you have to start the process all over again if you do not make your selections right away

Check-in and Luggage

Our departure day fell on a Friday and the beginning of a long holiday weekend. However, unlike other terminals at the Logan Airport, Terminal E seemed “deserted” on that January morning. Our limo driver told us that the pattern was rather common in the winter months.

By checking-in online and printing out the boarding passes in advance, we could sail through via the Web Check-in counter. There, we could drop off our two free-of-charge suitcases (up to 23 kg/50 lb each).

Other advantages of flying with Copa

One hour into the flight, the free warm breakfast consisting of French toast or scrambled eggs with a link of sausage, tomatoes and chives was served. Complimentary drinks followed. Even on short trips (such as between Panama City and San Jose), Copa offers passengers full hot meals and complimentary beverages (including beer and wine). To make the flight time pass more quickly, a 12-channel, multi-language entertainment system with free headphones is also offered.

Substantial savings are to be made if you travel great distances. In Panama City, we met an American who was saved whopping $1200 per trip by flying Copa between the West Coast to Argentina.

Flight time between Boston and Panama City is about 5 hours. The layover time of one and a half hour was comfortably short. The airport in Panama City is very compact and no long-distance walking is needed (let alone changes of terminals). The distance between the departure/arrival gates at the Panama City airport was about 150 yards (meters) with no additional security checks. Our second leg from Tocumen International Airport in Panama City and San Jose lasted only 50 minutes.

Tocumen-International-Airport-in-Panama-City

Tocumen International Airport in Panama City

The homebound Copa Airline flights were equally pleasant without any incidents or delays. As soon as we realized that we’d left one of our carry-on items on the plane, a Copa representative appeared at the luggage claim area to reunite us with our lost possessions.

Note that Copa Airlines does not currently offer Wi-Fi on its flights. As vacationers, we could happily pass on this particular perk.

Although our recent trip to Costa Rica represents only 4 data points, we had a great overall traveling experience with Copa Airlines. We would certainly use it again on our future trips to Central or South America.

Visiting Several African Countries in a Single Trip

Visiting Several African Countries in a Single Trip

Although Africa has been penciled on our “bucket list” of travel destinations for a long time, deciding which countries to visit and what time to go proved daunting. After some initial research and considerations, several destinations appeared attractive. Excellent tourism infrastructure made South Africa quite attractive for independent road travel. Namibia was calling for its spellbinding landscapes, whereas Madagascar has always been on my mind as the Promised Land for any wildlife enthusiast. An unexpected lay-off at work made it easier to embark on a longer trip and to visit several African countries on a single 40-day long trip.

South Africa – Namibia – Madagascar

40-day travel itinerary 

South Africa (2 days)

(October 24-26)

Day 1: Cape Town, Woodstock (Old Biscuit Mill)

Day 2: Cape Town, City Bowl 

Day 3: Departure for Walvis Bay, Namibia

Namibia (12 days)

(October 26 – November 6)

Day 3: Walvis Bay – Swakopmund (via Coastal Route)

Distance 40 km, travel time 1 hour

Day 4: Swakopmund – Sesriem (via C28)

Distance 344 km, travel time 5 hours

Day 5: Sossusvlei – Solitaire

Distance 142 km, travel time 2 hours

Day 6: Solitaire – Henties Bay (via Swakopmund)

Distance 332 km, travel time 4.5 hours

Day 7: Henties Bay – Terrace-Bay (via Cape Cross)

Distance 287 km, travel time 3.6 hours

Day 8: Terrace Bay – Kamanjab (via Damaraland)

Distance 300 km, travel time 4.5 hours

Day 9: Kamanjab – Etosha NP (via Galton Gate)

Distance 70 km, travel time 1 hour

Days 10-11: Etosha National Park

Day 12: Etosha NP-Spitzkoppe

Distance 417 km, travel time 4.5 hours

Day 13: Spitzkoppe-Sandwich Harbor (via Swakopmund)

Distance 200 km, travel time 2.5 hours

Day 14: Walvis Bay (Departure for Cape Town)

South Africa (3 days)

(November 6-9)

Day 15: Cape Town, Constantia (The Botanical Garden)

Day 16: Cape Town, Constantia (Vineyards & Wineries)

Day 17: Cape Town, Lion’s Head Sunset Hike

Madagascar (18 days)

(November 9-26th)

Day 18: Antananarivo – Arrival

Day 19: Antananarivo – Morondava (via Antsirabe)

Distance 700 km, travel time 12 hours

Day 20: Morondava – Kirindy

Distance 50 km, travel time 2 hours

Day 21: Kirindy Forest (Reserve)

Day 22: Kirindy – Bekopaka (Tsingy)

Distance 145 km, travel time 6 hours

Days 23-24: Tsingy de Bemaraha Nature Reserve

Day 25: Bekopaka – Morondava, via Belo Tsiribihina

Distance 206 km, travel time 8 hours

Day 26: Morondava – Antsirabe

Distance 483 km, travel time 8 hours

Day 27: Antsirabe – Ambalavao

Distance 297 km, travel time 6 hours

Day 28: Ambalavao – Anja Park (Reserve)

Distance 10 km, travel time 15 min

Day 29: Ambalavao – Ranomafana

Distance 117 km, travel time 2 hours 15 min

Day 30: Ranomafana National Park

Day 31: Ranomafana – Antsirabe

Distance 230 km, travel time 4.5 hours

Day 32: Antsirabe – Andasibe

Distance 312 km, travel time 5.5 hours

Day 33: Alamazoatra NP and Mitsinjo Forest

Day 34:  Maromizaha Reserve

Day 35: Andasibe – Antananarivo

Distance 155 km, travel time 3.7 hours

Day 36: Antananarivo (Departure for Cape Town)

South Africa (4 days)

(November 26-30th)

Day 37: Cape Town, Oranjestad (Table Mountain National Park)

Day 38: Cape Town, Oranjestad (Boulders Penguin Colony, Cape of Good Hope)

Day 39: Cape Town, Oranjestad (Two Oceans Aquarium, Beaches of Cape Town)

Day 40: Cape Town-Heidelberg (via Road R44-R43)

Getting to South Africa from the United States

The total cost of flying between South Africa, Namibia and Madagascar was similar to the airfare between the U.S. and Cape Town. Collectively, our transportation expenses (excluding the car rentals) came to about $2,200 per person for the 10 flights we took during those 6 weeks. September appears as the ideal time of the year to visit these parts of the world, when the spring just starts setting in and the vast fields of wild flowers near Cape Town display bright splashes of color. However, for us, as independent travelers, it took 3 weeks was to make all the necessary arrangements for our multi-country travel itinerary.

As a result of lengthy trip planning phase, we did not leave Boston until the last week in October. To appreciate the advantages of traveling during the off-peak time, read Shoulder Season Traveling to Namibia and Madagascar. All reasonably priced trans-Atlantic flights from Boston to Cape Town at that time connected somewhere in the Middle East with painfully long layovers (9-11 hours) and would chip away at our precious vacation time. But hey, I have no job to rush back to … Needless to say,  the only desire we had upon our arrival to the Cape Town Airport (CPT) was to hail a taxi to our downtown Airbnb apartment in Woodstock and hit the bed in this mysterious corner of the world…

Plague Outbreak in Madagascar

Plague Outbreak in Madagascar

A dramatic plague outbreak in Madagascar caught us unprepared just a few days before our recent trip to Africa. Apparently, it began as early as August 2017, and was spreading rapidly as the especially lethal pneumonic form. In contrast to the more common, bubonic type (which typically spreads by flees from rats and few other animal-hosts to people), pneumonic plague is transmitted from-person-to-person. By the time the news broke out, we had already made most of our Africa trip arrangements. However, as independent travelers, we had far more flexibility in shaping our upcoming vacation.

Hope for the Best, Prepare for the Worst

When facing potential health threats, like disease outbreaks, do not panic and cancel the trip right away. First, assess the situation objectively using the authoritative sources of information:

Through our independent research and travel clinic, we received loads of information about the disease and learned to recognize its symptoms. More importantly, we got enough antibiotics to last us through two full courses of treatment.

No Plague Vaccine, but Antibiotics are Highly Effective

Before leaving home, we visited our travel nurse to make sure we had all the necessary vaccinations and medicines for the trip. We shared out tentative itinerary with the map showing all routes and destinations.

Despite many years of basic and clinical research worldwide, there is still no safe and effective vaccine against this highly deadly infectious disease. However, several potential vaccine development approaches are being explored by scientists. Fortunately, the pathogen has remained relatively stable for hundreds of years, giving hope for successful plague prevention by vaccination. According to researches, the genetic makeup of the modern time bacteria does not seem too much different from the original plague bacteria.

Plague is highly curable with antibiotics, if detected and treated early. Moreover, drug-resistance has not been widely reported. Later during the outbreak, WHO reported that 33 isolates of Yersinia pestis had been cultured and tested by the Institut Pasteur Madagascar. All of them were sensitive to the antibiotics recommended by the National Plague Control Program. None of the 81 health care workers, who have been infected during the outbreaks died from the disease. This underscores the importance of safety measures, early disease diagnosis and access to antibiotics.

Keeping an Eye on Updates from Health Authorities

On the day of our departure to Africa, World Health Organization (WHO) reported that the death toll from the epidemic had reached 102 people. This number was surprisingly high and greatly exceeded those from the previous plague outbreaks in Madagascar. At the same time, 9 other African countries (including South Africa) were now at high alert due to a significant risk of a similar outbreak. The travel health advisories for Madagascar at CDC had changed: from “Watch Level 1, Practice Usual Precautions” to “Alert – Level 2, Practice Enhanced Precautions”.

Since Namibia was our first destination after Cape Town, we decided to keep monitoring the situation and the CDC status. Should it change to “Warning Level 3, Avoid Nonessential Travel”, we would have canceled our trip to Madagascar and visit several National Parks in South Africa instead.

History of Black Death in Madagascar

Plague was brought to Madagascar from India by boats back in 1898, as part of so called “third pandemics”. It reached the area of central highlands by 1920, where it has remained endemic ever since. Despite numerous outbreaks recorded in the major port cities, those locations do not appear to be persistent plague reservoirs in the country. Studies have shown that the costal environment hardly represents a suitable long-term ecological niche for the disease source. In many cases, the examined bacterial strains could still be traced to the highland areas. A similar route from the highlands to the coast was implicated into spreading of the latest plague outbreak of 2017.

The latest outbreak of 2017 was the pneumonic variety and was spreading throughout the major cities. Most previous occurrences were diagnozed as the bubonic type and were limited to small remote villages. The details of such a transformation of bubonic into pneumonic type of disease was described in detail: “The index case was a bubonic patient with a secondary lung infection, who contaminated a traditional healer and his family. Funeral ceremonies and attendance on patients contaminated other villagers. In total 18 cases were recorded, and eight died”.

“Turning of the bones” at Famadihana

As we were reading the news from the major media outlets, “dancing with the dead” was being “promoted” as THE REASON for the plague epidemics. They were referring to famadihana, traditional secondary burial rituals practiced by several highland tribes (mostly Imerina and Basileo). The custom, commonly known as “turning of the bones”, involves exhumation of deceased family members from the ancestral tombs. As their remains are being re-wrapped into fresh silk cloth and carried around by family members, the entire community celebrates with dancing, drinking and live music. Famadihana is based on the belief that the dead do not join the rest of their ancestors until their bodies reaches full decomposition with appropriate ceremonies and festivities.

The process could take up to several years and involves direct contact with corpses. There have been concerns that this burial practice could perpetuate the spread of plague and other diseases in Madagascar. However, firm scientific evidence to support such a connection between famadihana and the viscous cycle of the Black Death are profoundly lacking.

A large epidemiological study of plague cases in Madagascar reported that “the incidences were negligible during the period when the Famadihana tradition was presumably practiced”.  Researchers believe that other environmental and anthropological factors are more likely to play a larger role in spreading the plague. The pathogen’s natural host is the black rat (Rattus rattus), which also infested the island more than a century ago. During the cool and dry season (July-December), the population of rats drops. The fleas start feeding of people, thereby, transmitting the disease and leading to regular outbreaks.

Monitoring the Outbreak Status

Upon our return from Namibia, we checked the updates issued by WHO. The outbreak appeared to had peaked in October and the number of new cases were decreasing. More than half of all cases had been reported in the capital of Antananarivo and the main port of Toamasina, the largest cities in Madagascar. The CDC had not raised their alert level and the flights from South Africa for Madagascar were leaving as scheduled. At that point, we decided to pursue our original travel plans. However, we did modify our itinerary to avoid prolonged stays in the larger cities and visits to crowded places. Quite predictably, only 18 seats (out of over a hundred) were taken on the plane bringing us from Johannesburg to Antananarivo.

Preventing the Future Epidemics

Most of our time in the country, was spent in transit and visiting national parks. We did explore some small villages, local markets and artisanal workshops in the highlands, but kept those activities to a minimum. Better safe than sorry. One early evening, we witnessed a heated discussion on the veranda of our small hotel in Ambalavao province. It was a multidisciplinary team of European health care professionals from Doctors without Borders in the middle of a brainstorming session. These were doctors, nurses and social workers tasked with educating the local population and medical personnel about plague prevention, symptom recognition and treatment.

They sounded undeterred and optimistic about finding a long-term solution to plague outbreaks in the country. As their colleagues worldwide, they passionately advocated for increased research, prevention and treatment efforts by the Malagasy authorities and the international community.

Staying Safe in Woodstock, Cape Town

Staying Safe in Woodstock, Cape Town

Prior to our recent trip to Africa, Woodstock was not on the initial list of places to visit in Cape Town. However, the promise of the “panoramic views of the city” by a local Airbnb owner caught our attention. Following an 30-hour trip from Boston to South Africa and a short taxi ride from the airport, we finally reached our destination. Wrestling with the jet lag and fatigue, we were slowly settling down. Urged by the nagging hunger, we decided to venture out and explore the neighborhood. Within an hour, we were on our way to the Old Biscuit Mill, just a mile away.

Walking in Woodstock

This was an early evening and the end of a work day. The factory workers started pouring out through the gates of the local factories, quickly filling up the streets and the bus stop areas. Unlike other more segregated neighborhoods we stayed at during our time in Cape Town, Woodstock was a multiracial community. As we learned, it also represented a poster child of the ongoing urban gentrification in the city. As a true melting pot, is had a special edgy vibe and, admittedly, some rough element.

When we inquired with two local residents whether it was safe to walk along Albert road, the answer was “sometimes it is…”. While buying a bottle of water at a small local shop, its owner provided us with an unsolicited advice at the checkout: “You must be new around here, as you keep too much cash visible in your wallet”.

The Price of Revival

In the recent years, Woodstock has been undergoing a makeover from a grim industrial patch into a vibrant business hub and an attractive residential area. However, this recent transformation has come at a cost. As the property values kept rising, less fortunate long-time residents of Woodstock were experiencing evictions and displacement.  Many ended up living in the rusty metal shucks on the nearby “human damping” grounds, like Blikkiesdorp (“Tin Box Town” in Afrikaans). While widely criticized for not being more inclusionary, the undaunted entrepreneurs have remained busy at work. Almost on every corner, you will see examples of new and beautifully restored residential and commercial buildings.

The Old Biscuit Mill

When we finally got to the Mill, we discovered several artsy shops, creative studios and eateries on the block. There was also a secure larger parking area nearby. If you, just like us, has failed to make a several-months-in-advance reservation to The Test Kitchen (which is ranked among the best restaurants in the World with an impressive list of domestic and international awards), try a juicy lamb burger (The Karoo Grazer) at Redemption Burgers instead. Don’t forget to complement it with a pint of refreshing local craft beer or cider. They are simply delicious! If you are in the area on Saturday, make sure to visit the Neighbourgoods Market. It’s best experienced early in the morning, before the crowds.

Street Art in Woodstock

Visiting Woodstock during the day, one can then embark on an “street art safari” for entertainment. This is a recent urban art project featuring a variety of masterpieces, including the creative “Black or White?” mural (see the blog post image) by Aleksei Bordusov aka Aec Interesni KazkiFor a detailed “street safari” itinerary and other things to do in Woodstock, check out the “Secret Cape Town (Local guides by local people)” book by Justin Fox and Alison Westwood. It is also loaded with other recommendations for “off-the-beaten-track” places to explore while staying in Cape Town.

Safety Rules and Water Shortage

After our “night out” (the Old Biscuit Mill closed at 5pm), we prudently flagged down a taxi to get back to our place. Using public transport or walking the backstreets of Woodstock (especially after dark) was not widely advised by the local residents and the visitors alike.

Aware of the fact that Cape Town was going through its worst drought in decades, we kept our showers very brief. We also collected the water for re-use, as requested by our host in her “instructions for the guests”. We learned later on that this was just the beginning of the worst drought in Cape Town in decades.  Struggling with the stubborn jet lag, we finally fell asleep. The calls to the morning prayer were coming from a nearby mosque, breaking the silence of the night.

Good Books about Madagascar

Good Books about Madagascar

Before our trip to Madagascar, we did not have the luxury of time for reading books about the Great Red Island. To find out why, check out Unexpected Trip to Africa. All we had was the expertly written Bradt Madagascar Guide Book (which we certainly recommend to any traveler, organized or independent) and a travel map. However, if you are in the habit of picking up and read a book or two about places you visit, consider one of the books about Madagascar from this list.

Favorite Reads about Madagascar

Due to its fascinating nature, Madagascar has been a magnet for biologists, anthropologists and ethnographers alike. Many of them published their notes, scientific observations and archive research findings in numerous academic articles and books. The books reviewed below became our favorites because they are educational, entertaining and easy to read. Two of them are also quite intimate in nature, as both Alison Jolly and David Graeber spent significant amount of time living within the communities they described. After reading them, the Malagasy people are more likely to appear to you as familiar soles rather than exotic human beings.

Female Caligula: Ranavalona: the Mad Queen of Madagascar

By Keith Laidler. London: John Wiley & Sons. (2005)

As Harvard University’s American History professor Laurel Thatcher Ulrich famously wrote in her research article 50 years ago, “Well-behaved women seldom make history…“. The legacy of the infamous Malagasy Queen Ranavalona appears to fit this notion. The book by the anthropologist Keith Laidler narrates a captivating story of a despotic, but rather effective female ruler. Ascending “from rugs to riches”, this pragmatic “politician” masterly governed the country for several decades.

Rather than being a simple biography of the monarch herself, the book reads as a brief artistically-written historic overview of Madagascar and the region in the 19th century. It sheds light on the domestic and regional power struggle. It also describes some customs and heritage of Merina, the Malagasy tribe, living in and around the capital and surrounding highlands. Throughout the book, author eloquently describes Ranavalona’s brutality and questions her morals and sanity.

More reluctantly, Laidler also acknowledges several remarkable political and economic successes of the Queen. Her efforts turned (if only temporarily) the Merina-dominated nation into a self-sufficient, autonomous regional power in the western Indian Ocean. Imagine a female leader of a developing African country, being able to freeze the Franco-British trade in the region entirely. Only after the $15,000 in repatriation were paid by “the offender”, did she reverse her course on the matter.

Beyond the “mad queen” herself, the book tells the reader about a handful of extraordinary Europeans with close ties to the country. Jean Laborde started his “tenure” on the island as a mere castaway. The engineer is credited for contributing greatly to Madagascar’s “industrial revolution”. He was also Ranavalona’s lover and confidant until the day he got himself expelled from the country for staging a coup against her.

The “diplomatic” intrigues of another French character, trader Joseph-Francois Lambert, are also of historical significance. An agreement called Lambert Chapter, later became a major pretext of the French colonization of Madagascar.

Finally, a story about the Austrian solo female adventurer Ida Pfeiffer, made its way into the narrative. The lady described as “the world’s first independent traveler, eschewing “package tours” and setting out alone to whatever destination took her fancy”, never fully recovered from her trip to Madagascar. Her personal (and rather vitriolic) narrative of the “mad Queen” in “The Last Travels of Ida Pfeiffer: Inclusive of a Visit to Madagascar (1861)” was published in London just a few months before Ranavalona’s death and a few years after her own.

A few of Laidler’s critics argue that certain “facts” about the Queen described in the book are rather anecdotal in nature. However, his account of this prominent national character and the period of history she represented is certainly worthwhile.

Lords and lemurs: mad scientists, kings with spears, and the survival of diversity in Madagascar

By Alison Jolly. Houghton Mifflin. (2004)

This is a touching and humoristic autobiographical book written by a biologist Alison Jolly about Malagasy life. During her academic career, the author spent over 40 years studying behavior of ringtails and other lemurs in the unique spiny forest of the southern Madagascar. She became a close friend of her hosts and the founders of the Berenty Reserve, the aristocratic French De Heaulme family. Originally from the Reunion, De Heaulmes ran a local sisal factory and represented the largest employer in the area. Jolly also became deeply involved with the local Tandroy tribe.

Although written by a primatologist, the book is not a descriptive study of lemurs’ behavior. In fact, the amount of material about the local wildlife in the book is well balanced with its historical and ethnographic content. The author masterly and passionately navigates the complexity and cultural nuances of the Malagasy society, its traditional beliefs and customs. She also adds a human touch to the dilemmas of the “the Westerners”, who set out on their humanitarian, conservational and developmental missions in Madagascar.

The transformation of the Berenty Reserve into a thriving eco-lodge, following a dramatic downturn in the sisal industry, was one of a plethora of turning points described in the book. Currently, Berenty is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Madagascar.

Lost People: Magic and the Legacy of Slavery in Madagascar

By David Graeber. Bloomington: Indiana University Press. (2007)

“Lost people” are devoid of their own land and therefore the blessings of their ancestors. And this is a great shortcoming in the minds of most descendants of the “nobles” and “free people” of Imerina.

Madagascar played a central role in slave-trade, which constituted a large portion of the regional economy in the late 18-19th centuries. Access to slave labor particularly important for the colonial plantation owners on Mauritius and Reunion in the western Indian Ocean. In addition, it fueled the domestic Madagascar economy under the Merina rule. As much as one third of the Merina Kingdom was represented by slaves by 1820 and served as a major labor force.

The book is based on extensive archival work and analyses of the 19th century Merina Kingdom documents. It is an ethnographic account of life in Befato, a rural community in the highlands, just outside of the capital Antananarivo. It’s mostly concerned with the cultural and social burden of slavery in postcolonial Madagascar. The collective history of this past imprinted on three different cross-sections of the modern Malagasy population: the andriana (the nobles), the hova (the free people) and the mainty (the slaves) and their collective and individual cultural identities.

Just like 200 years ago, slave descendants represent a large portion of the Merina population (close to one out of three, by some estimates). More than a century after slave labor was officially abolished, modern slavery-like practices and discrimination still exist in Madagascar.

Although the Graeber has been criticized by some experts in the field (most notably by Gwyn Campbell, a guru in the economic history of the Indian Ocean region) for his research sources and methods, the book serves its purpose as defined by the author himself. Rather than being strictly historic in nature, his work is, first and foremost, an ethnographic account of life and struggle of a small Malagasy community. The “oral memories” collected by Graeber provide a rich social context for deeper understanding of the local people you will encounter and interact with during your travels.

No time to read this long (over 400 pages) book about Madagascar? No problem. Try “Slavery and Post-Slavery in Madagascar: An Overview” instead. This manuscript was expertly written by Denis Regnier and Dominique Somda for the recent book “African Islands: Leading Edges of Empire and Globalization”. It might be all you need to get somewhat familiar with the topic.  Also take a look UNECSO’s Slave Route Map to see how the slave trade originating in Madagascar, fits in the global slavery history.