Good Books about Madagascar

Good Books about Madagascar

Before our trip to Madagascar, we did not have the luxury of time for reading books about the Great Red Island. To find out why, check out Unexpected Trip to Africa. All we had was the expertly written Bradt Madagascar Guide Book (which we certainly recommend to any traveler, organized or independent) and a travel map. However, if you are in the habit of picking up and read a book or two about places you visit, consider one of the books about Madagascar from this list.

Favorite Reads about Madagascar

Due to its fascinating nature, Madagascar has been a magnet for biologists, anthropologists and ethnographers alike. Many of them published their notes, scientific observations and archive research findings in numerous academic articles and books. The books reviewed below became our favorites because they are educational, entertaining and easy to read. Two of them are also quite intimate in nature, as both Alison Jolly and David Graeber spent significant amount of time living within the communities they described. After reading them, the Malagasy people are more likely to appear to you as familiar soles rather than exotic human beings.

Female Caligula: Ranavalona: the Mad Queen of Madagascar

By Keith Laidler. London: John Wiley & Sons. (2005)

As Harvard University’s American History professor Laurel Thatcher Ulrich famously wrote in her research article 50 years ago, “Well-behaved women seldom make history…“. The legacy of the infamous Malagasy Queen Ranavalona appears to fit this notion. The book by the anthropologist Keith Laidler narrates a captivating story of a despotic, but rather effective female ruler. Ascending “from rugs to riches”, this pragmatic “politician” masterly governed the country for several decades.

Rather than being a simple biography of the monarch herself, the book reads as a brief artistically-written historic overview of Madagascar and the region in the 19th century. It sheds light on the domestic and regional power struggle. It also describes some customs and heritage of Merina, the Malagasy tribe, living in and around the capital and surrounding highlands. Throughout the book, author eloquently describes Ranavalona’s brutality and questions her morals and sanity.

More reluctantly, Laidler also acknowledges several remarkable political and economic successes of the Queen. Her efforts turned (if only temporarily) the Merina-dominated nation into a self-sufficient, autonomous regional power in the western Indian Ocean. Imagine a female leader of a developing African country, being able to freeze the Franco-British trade in the region entirely. Only after the $15,000 in repatriation were paid by “the offender”, did she reverse her course on the matter.

Beyond the “mad queen” herself, the book tells the reader about a handful of extraordinary Europeans with close ties to the country. Jean Laborde started his “tenure” on the island as a mere castaway. The engineer is credited for contributing greatly to Madagascar’s “industrial revolution”. He was also Ranavalona’s lover and confidant until the day he got himself expelled from the country for staging a coup against her.

The “diplomatic” intrigues of another French character, trader Joseph-Francois Lambert, are also of historical significance. An agreement called Lambert Chapter, later became a major pretext of the French colonization of Madagascar.

Finally, a story about the Austrian solo female adventurer Ida Pfeiffer, made its way into the narrative. The lady described as “the world’s first independent traveler, eschewing “package tours” and setting out alone to whatever destination took her fancy”, never fully recovered from her trip to Madagascar. Her personal (and rather vitriolic) narrative of the “mad Queen” in “The Last Travels of Ida Pfeiffer: Inclusive of a Visit to Madagascar (1861)” was published in London just a few months before Ranavalona’s death and a few years after her own.

A few of Laidler’s critics argue that certain “facts” about the Queen described in the book are rather anecdotal in nature. However, his account of this prominent national character and the period of history she represented is certainly worthwhile.

Lords and lemurs: mad scientists, kings with spears, and the survival of diversity in Madagascar

By Alison Jolly. Houghton Mifflin. (2004)

This is a touching and humoristic autobiographical book written by a biologist Alison Jolly about Malagasy life. During her academic career, the author spent over 40 years studying behavior of ringtails and other lemurs in the unique spiny forest of the southern Madagascar. She became a close friend of her hosts and the founders of the Berenty Reserve, the aristocratic French De Heaulme family. Originally from the Reunion, De Heaulmes ran a local sisal factory and represented the largest employer in the area. Jolly also became deeply involved with the local Tandroy tribe.

Although written by a primatologist, the book is not a descriptive study of lemurs’ behavior. In fact, the amount of material about the local wildlife in the book is well balanced with its historical and ethnographic content. The author masterly and passionately navigates the complexity and cultural nuances of the Malagasy society, its traditional beliefs and customs. She also adds a human touch to the dilemmas of the “the Westerners”, who set out on their humanitarian, conservational and developmental missions in Madagascar.

The transformation of the Berenty Reserve into a thriving eco-lodge, following a dramatic downturn in the sisal industry, was one of a plethora of turning points described in the book. Currently, Berenty is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the Madagascar.

Lost People: Magic and the Legacy of Slavery in Madagascar

By David Graeber. Bloomington: Indiana University Press. (2007)

“Lost people” are devoid of their own land and therefore the blessings of their ancestors. And this is a great shortcoming in the minds of most descendants of the “nobles” and “free people” of Imerina.

Madagascar played a central role in slave-trade, which constituted a large portion of the regional economy in the late 18-19th centuries. Access to slave labor particularly important for the colonial plantation owners on Mauritius and Reunion in the western Indian Ocean. In addition, it fueled the domestic Madagascar economy under the Merina rule. As much as one third of the Merina Kingdom was represented by slaves by 1820 and served as a major labor force.

The book is based on extensive archival work and analyses of the 19th century Merina Kingdom documents. It is an ethnographic account of life in Befato, a rural community in the highlands, just outside of the capital Antananarivo. It’s mostly concerned with the cultural and social burden of slavery in postcolonial Madagascar. The collective history of this past imprinted on three different cross-sections of the modern Malagasy population: the andriana (the nobles), the hova (the free people) and the mainty (the slaves) and their collective and individual cultural identities.

Just like 200 years ago, slave descendants represent a large portion of the Merina population (close to one out of three, by some estimates). More than a century after slave labor was officially abolished, modern slavery-like practices and discrimination still exist in Madagascar.

Although the Graeber has been criticized by some experts in the field (most notably by Gwyn Campbell, a guru in the economic history of the Indian Ocean region) for his research sources and methods, the book serves its purpose as defined by the author himself. Rather than being strictly historic in nature, his work is, first and foremost, an ethnographic account of life and struggle of a small Malagasy community. The “oral memories” collected by Graeber provide a rich social context for deeper understanding of the local people you will encounter and interact with during your travels.

No time to read this long (over 400 pages) book about Madagascar? No problem. Try “Slavery and Post-Slavery in Madagascar: An Overview” instead. This manuscript was expertly written by Denis Regnier and Dominique Somda for the recent book “African Islands: Leading Edges of Empire and Globalization”. It might be all you need to get somewhat familiar with the topic.  Also take a look UNECSO’s Slave Route Map to see how the slave trade originating in Madagascar, fits in the global slavery history.

Off-Peak Travel to Southern Africa

Off-Peak Travel to Southern Africa

Traveling during the shoulder season (immediately before or after the peak-time) has many upsides for independent travelers. During our most recent trip to Africa, we made sure to take full advantage of those. Below is a summary of  the most significant considerations, if you plan to travel to Namibia, Madagascar or Cape Town in October-November.

Advantages of “shoulder-time” travel:

  • Cut time for trip preparation (skip “well-in-advance” booking)
  • Avoid the long lines, wait time and crowds
  • Reduce the cost of transportation, accommodation and (oftentimes) activities
  • Achieve a wider selection of lodging/dining options and travel itinerary flexibility
  • Enjoy unique access to excursions and other experiential products and services (within private or small-group tours)
  • Take advantage of unique seasonal sightings at your travel destination

“Off-peak-time” drawbacks:

  • Changing, oftentimes unpredictable weather conditions
  • Seasonal availability of products and services along your travel routes

Traveling “on the shoulder” would cut the preparation time required prior to the trip. We spent between 3-4 weeks to make all the required arrangements for our trip to Africa.

Shoulder period in Namibia 

Although Namibian travel industry is not as well developed as tourism of South Africa, more than half a million people visit the country every year. As a result, the crowding in the popular parts of the country can be an issue during the summer months. In October, however, the influx of tourists decreases considerably, which is likely to make your trip cheaper and more enjoyable.

Despite short preparation time, finding moderately priced accommodation close to major areas of interest was relatively easy. The selection of options also remained reasonable. Most of the time, we could stay at places of our first/second choice and make all the reservations at the rates averaging $110 per night. There were no long lines for pass purchases or excessive idling at the gates of the national parks. We could enjoy most of the game viewing areas in solitude.

Namibian weather is still decent in October – early November and remains largely dry.  Early in the spring, the bush is still thinned out, making wildlife watching easy. In the Namib Desert, the heat is largely bearable, especially if you limit the outdoor activities to the mornings and evenings. This is an especially important consideration if you plan to visit Sossusvlei in the Namib-Naukluft National Park.

It is springtime in Namibia and the main flowering and fruiting season for !nara melon and Welwitschia mirabilis, both endemic plants of  the Namib Desert. Check out this post with places where to find wild Welwitschia mirabilis.

In the spring, the local birds (including many endemic species) display their vibrant breeding plumage and start building their nests. The extra bonus for the birdwatching enthusiasts is the arrival of the intra-African and Palaearctic migrant birds from Europe, which become a common sight along the roads, the coast and slowly-expanding water sources.

Hornbill bird in Etosha National Park Namibia

 Southern Yellow-Billed Hornbill

However, keep in mind, that the weather patterns have been changing in Namibia in the recent years (just like in the rest of the world). Considerable fluctuations in the temperatures and precipitation have been reported, especially during the shoulder season months.

Springtime in Madagascar

Madagascar is a less-traveled country than South Africa and even Namibia, with tourists typically flocking to the island during May-October winter months.

The weather considerations for Madagascar are rather similar to those described above for the Namibia travel. Late October and early November mark the beginning of the winter-summer transition and the days become increasingly hot and rainy. Many of the roads (including those leading to Tsingy de Bemaraha Strict Reserve) become impassable (even if you hire local expert drivers) and the hikes-physically straining. Finally, the omnipresent smoke from the infamous “slush and burn” agriculture practiced throughout the country in the spring might turn into a nightmare. For those of us with asthma and other respiratory conditions, bringing anti-inflammatory inhalers and cough drops would be wise.

On the bright side, October-November months is precisely the time when most lemur babies are born and may be spotted and more easily observed in the wild. This is true both for sifakas and ringtails, whereas indri lemurs have their young in March-April.

Ringtail lemur mother with her young

Ringtail lemur baby clinging to his mother

Furthermore, no advance lodging reservations were necessary for this part of our African journey. Traveling during an off-peak season offered us unlimited choices of places to stay and additional travel flexibility while navigating this rather challenging destination.

Cape Wild Flower Season

Cape Town and the surrounding Western Cape region are world famous for their unique flora. It is considered as an important biodiversity hot spot with over B. Most of these are endemic to the area and cannot be found in the wild anywhere else in the world. October and November fall into the best time of the year to visit Kirstenboch Botanical Gardens and to witness the spectacular ” floral display” of fynbos.

Mimetes-cucullatus-protea-spring-Cape-Town

Protea Mimetes cucullatus

November is one of the best months to hike up the Table Mountain, according to the experts. Two trails (Skeleton Gorge and Nursery Ravine trails) start from the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens at the foot of the mountain.