Visiting Several African Countries in a Single Trip

Visiting Several African Countries in a Single Trip

Although Africa has been penciled on our “bucket list” of travel destinations for a long time, deciding which countries to visit and what time to go proved daunting. After some initial research and considerations, several destinations appeared attractive. Excellent tourism infrastructure made South Africa quite attractive for independent road travel. Namibia was calling for its spellbinding landscapes, whereas Madagascar has always been on my mind as the Promised Land for any wildlife enthusiast. An unexpected lay-off at work made it easier to embark on a longer trip and to visit several African countries on a single 40-day long trip.

South Africa – Namibia – Madagascar

40-day travel itinerary 

South Africa (2 days)

(October 24-26)

Day 1: Cape Town, Woodstock (Old Biscuit Mill)

Day 2: Cape Town, City Bowl 

Day 3: Departure for Walvis Bay, Namibia

Namibia (12 days)

(October 26 – November 6)

Day 3: Walvis Bay – Swakopmund (via Coastal Route)

Distance 40 km, travel time 1 hour

Day 4: Swakopmund – Sesriem (via C28)

Distance 344 km, travel time 5 hours

Day 5: Sossusvlei – Solitaire

Distance 142 km, travel time 2 hours

Day 6: Solitaire – Henties Bay (via Swakopmund)

Distance 332 km, travel time 4.5 hours

Day 7: Henties Bay – Terrace-Bay (via Cape Cross)

Distance 287 km, travel time 3.6 hours

Day 8: Terrace Bay – Kamanjab (via Damaraland)

Distance 300 km, travel time 4.5 hours

Day 9: Kamanjab – Etosha NP (via Galton Gate)

Distance 70 km, travel time 1 hour

Days 10-11: Etosha National Park

Day 12: Etosha NP-Spitzkoppe

Distance 417 km, travel time 4.5 hours

Day 13: Spitzkoppe-Sandwich Harbor (via Swakopmund)

Distance 200 km, travel time 2.5 hours

Day 14: Walvis Bay (Departure for Cape Town)

South Africa (3 days)

(November 6-9)

Day 15: Cape Town, Constantia (The Botanical Garden)

Day 16: Cape Town, Constantia (Vineyards & Wineries)

Day 17: Cape Town, Lion’s Head Sunset Hike

Madagascar (18 days)

(November 9-26th)

Day 18: Antananarivo – Arrival

Day 19: Antananarivo – Morondava (via Antsirabe)

Distance 700 km, travel time 12 hours

Day 20: Morondava – Kirindy

Distance 50 km, travel time 2 hours

Day 21: Kirindy Forest (Reserve)

Day 22: Kirindy – Bekopaka (Tsingy)

Distance 145 km, travel time 6 hours

Days 23-24: Tsingy de Bemaraha Nature Reserve

Day 25: Bekopaka – Morondava, via Belo Tsiribihina

Distance 206 km, travel time 8 hours

Day 26: Morondava – Antsirabe

Distance 483 km, travel time 8 hours

Day 27: Antsirabe – Ambalavao

Distance 297 km, travel time 6 hours

Day 28: Ambalavao – Anja Park (Reserve)

Distance 10 km, travel time 15 min

Day 29: Ambalavao – Ranomafana

Distance 117 km, travel time 2 hours 15 min

Day 30: Ranomafana National Park

Day 31: Ranomafana – Antsirabe

Distance 230 km, travel time 4.5 hours

Day 32: Antsirabe – Andasibe

Distance 312 km, travel time 5.5 hours

Day 33: Alamazoatra NP and Mitsinjo Forest

Day 34:  Maromizaha Reserve

Day 35: Andasibe – Antananarivo

Distance 155 km, travel time 3.7 hours

Day 36: Antananarivo (Departure for Cape Town)

South Africa (4 days)

(November 26-30th)

Day 37: Cape Town, Oranjestad (Table Mountain National Park)

Day 38: Cape Town, Oranjestad (Boulders Penguin Colony, Cape of Good Hope)

Day 39: Cape Town, Oranjestad (Two Oceans Aquarium, Beaches of Cape Town)

Day 40: Cape Town-Heidelberg (via Road R44-R43)

Getting to South Africa from the United States

The total cost of flying between South Africa, Namibia and Madagascar was similar to the airfare between the U.S. and Cape Town. Collectively, our transportation expenses (excluding the car rentals) came to about $2,200 per person for the 10 flights we took during those 6 weeks. September appears as the ideal time of the year to visit these parts of the world, when the spring just starts setting in and the vast fields of wild flowers near Cape Town display bright splashes of color. However, for us, as independent travelers, it took 3 weeks was to make all the necessary arrangements for our multi-country travel itinerary.

As a result of lengthy trip planning phase, we did not leave Boston until the last week in October. To appreciate the advantages of traveling during the off-peak time, read Shoulder Season Traveling to Namibia and Madagascar. All reasonably priced trans-Atlantic flights from Boston to Cape Town at that time connected somewhere in the Middle East with painfully long layovers (9-11 hours) and would chip away at our precious vacation time. But hey, I have no job to rush back to … Needless to say,  the only desire we had upon our arrival to the Cape Town Airport (CPT) was to hail a taxi to our downtown Airbnb apartment in Woodstock and hit the bed in this mysterious corner of the world…

Staying Safe in Woodstock, Cape Town

Staying Safe in Woodstock, Cape Town

Prior to our recent trip to Africa, Woodstock was not on the initial list of places to visit in Cape Town. However, the promise of the “panoramic views of the city” by a local Airbnb owner caught our attention. Following an 30-hour trip from Boston to South Africa and a short taxi ride from the airport, we finally reached our destination. Wrestling with the jet lag and fatigue, we were slowly settling down. Urged by the nagging hunger, we decided to venture out and explore the neighborhood. Within an hour, we were on our way to the Old Biscuit Mill, just a mile away.

Walking in Woodstock

This was an early evening and the end of a work day. The factory workers started pouring out through the gates of the local factories, quickly filling up the streets and the bus stop areas. Unlike other more segregated neighborhoods we stayed at during our time in Cape Town, Woodstock was a multiracial community. As we learned, it also represented a poster child of the ongoing urban gentrification in the city. As a true melting pot, is had a special edgy vibe and, admittedly, some rough element.

When we inquired with two local residents whether it was safe to walk along Albert road, the answer was “sometimes it is…”. While buying a bottle of water at a small local shop, its owner provided us with an unsolicited advice at the checkout: “You must be new around here, as you keep too much cash visible in your wallet”.

The Price of Revival

In the recent years, Woodstock has been undergoing a makeover from a grim industrial patch into a vibrant business hub and an attractive residential area. However, this recent transformation has come at a cost. As the property values kept rising, less fortunate long-time residents of Woodstock were experiencing evictions and displacement.  Many ended up living in the rusty metal shucks on the nearby “human damping” grounds, like Blikkiesdorp (“Tin Box Town” in Afrikaans). While widely criticized for not being more inclusionary, the undaunted entrepreneurs have remained busy at work. Almost on every corner, you will see examples of new and beautifully restored residential and commercial buildings.

The Old Biscuit Mill

When we finally got to the Mill, we discovered several artsy shops, creative studios and eateries on the block. There was also a secure larger parking area nearby. If you, just like us, has failed to make a several-months-in-advance reservation to The Test Kitchen (which is ranked among the best restaurants in the World with an impressive list of domestic and international awards), try a juicy lamb burger (The Karoo Grazer) at Redemption Burgers instead. Don’t forget to complement it with a pint of refreshing local craft beer or cider. They are simply delicious! If you are in the area on Saturday, make sure to visit the Neighbourgoods Market. It’s best experienced early in the morning, before the crowds.

Street Art in Woodstock

Visiting Woodstock during the day, one can then embark on an “street art safari” for entertainment. This is a recent urban art project featuring a variety of masterpieces, including the creative “Black or White?” mural (see the blog post image) by Aleksei Bordusov aka Aec Interesni KazkiFor a detailed “street safari” itinerary and other things to do in Woodstock, check out the “Secret Cape Town (Local guides by local people)” book by Justin Fox and Alison Westwood. It is also loaded with other recommendations for “off-the-beaten-track” places to explore while staying in Cape Town.

Safety Rules and Water Shortage

After our “night out” (the Old Biscuit Mill closed at 5pm), we prudently flagged down a taxi to get back to our place. Using public transport or walking the backstreets of Woodstock (especially after dark) was not widely advised by the local residents and the visitors alike.

Aware of the fact that Cape Town was going through its worst drought in decades, we kept our showers very brief. We also collected the water for re-use, as requested by our host in her “instructions for the guests”. We learned later on that this was just the beginning of the worst drought in Cape Town in decades.  Struggling with the stubborn jet lag, we finally fell asleep. The calls to the morning prayer were coming from a nearby mosque, breaking the silence of the night.

Off-Peak Travel to Southern Africa

Off-Peak Travel to Southern Africa

Traveling during the shoulder season (immediately before or after the peak-time) has many upsides for independent travelers. During our most recent trip to Africa, we made sure to take full advantage of those. Below is a summary of  the most significant considerations, if you plan to travel to Namibia, Madagascar or Cape Town in October-November.

Advantages of “shoulder-time” travel:

  • Cut time for trip preparation (skip “well-in-advance” booking)
  • Avoid the long lines, wait time and crowds
  • Reduce the cost of transportation, accommodation and (oftentimes) activities
  • Achieve a wider selection of lodging/dining options and travel itinerary flexibility
  • Enjoy unique access to excursions and other experiential products and services (within private or small-group tours)
  • Take advantage of unique seasonal sightings at your travel destination

“Off-peak-time” drawbacks:

  • Changing, oftentimes unpredictable weather conditions
  • Seasonal availability of products and services along your travel routes

Traveling “on the shoulder” would cut the preparation time required prior to the trip. We spent between 3-4 weeks to make all the required arrangements for our trip to Africa.

Shoulder period in Namibia 

Although Namibian travel industry is not as well developed as tourism of South Africa, more than half a million people visit the country every year. As a result, the crowding in the popular parts of the country can be an issue during the summer months. In October, however, the influx of tourists decreases considerably, which is likely to make your trip cheaper and more enjoyable.

Despite short preparation time, finding moderately priced accommodation close to major areas of interest was relatively easy. The selection of options also remained reasonable. Most of the time, we could stay at places of our first/second choice and make all the reservations at the rates averaging $110 per night. There were no long lines for pass purchases or excessive idling at the gates of the national parks. We could enjoy most of the game viewing areas in solitude.

Namibian weather is still decent in October – early November and remains largely dry.  Early in the spring, the bush is still thinned out, making wildlife watching easy. In the Namib Desert, the heat is largely bearable, especially if you limit the outdoor activities to the mornings and evenings. This is an especially important consideration if you plan to visit Sossusvlei in the Namib-Naukluft National Park.

It is springtime in Namibia and the main flowering and fruiting season for !nara melon and Welwitschia mirabilis, both endemic plants of  the Namib Desert. Check out this post with places where to find wild Welwitschia mirabilis.

In the spring, the local birds (including many endemic species) display their vibrant breeding plumage and start building their nests. The extra bonus for the birdwatching enthusiasts is the arrival of the intra-African and Palaearctic migrant birds from Europe, which become a common sight along the roads, the coast and slowly-expanding water sources.

Hornbill bird in Etosha National Park Namibia

 Southern Yellow-Billed Hornbill

However, keep in mind, that the weather patterns have been changing in Namibia in the recent years (just like in the rest of the world). Considerable fluctuations in the temperatures and precipitation have been reported, especially during the shoulder season months.

Springtime in Madagascar

Madagascar is a less-traveled country than South Africa and even Namibia, with tourists typically flocking to the island during May-October winter months.

The weather considerations for Madagascar are rather similar to those described above for the Namibia travel. Late October and early November mark the beginning of the winter-summer transition and the days become increasingly hot and rainy. Many of the roads (including those leading to Tsingy de Bemaraha Strict Reserve) become impassable (even if you hire local expert drivers) and the hikes-physically straining. Finally, the omnipresent smoke from the infamous “slush and burn” agriculture practiced throughout the country in the spring might turn into a nightmare. For those of us with asthma and other respiratory conditions, bringing anti-inflammatory inhalers and cough drops would be wise.

On the bright side, October-November months is precisely the time when most lemur babies are born and may be spotted and more easily observed in the wild. This is true both for sifakas and ringtails, whereas indri lemurs have their young in March-April.

Ringtail lemur mother with her young

Ringtail lemur baby clinging to his mother

Furthermore, no advance lodging reservations were necessary for this part of our African journey. Traveling during an off-peak season offered us unlimited choices of places to stay and additional travel flexibility while navigating this rather challenging destination.

Cape Wild Flower Season

Cape Town and the surrounding Western Cape region are world famous for their unique flora. It is considered as an important biodiversity hot spot with over B. Most of these are endemic to the area and cannot be found in the wild anywhere else in the world. October and November fall into the best time of the year to visit Kirstenboch Botanical Gardens and to witness the spectacular ” floral display” of fynbos.

Mimetes-cucullatus-protea-spring-Cape-Town

Protea Mimetes cucullatus

November is one of the best months to hike up the Table Mountain, according to the experts. Two trails (Skeleton Gorge and Nursery Ravine trails) start from the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens at the foot of the mountain.